I don't have any capability of programming AVRs etc. I can just solder. I need to be able to switch off the 9v wall adapter supply to the step up transformer. See schematic here: www.filefactory.com/file/b520111/n/ThomasWWVBNixie.pdf,
Dan On Jan 23, 1:45 pm, will <ossumguyw...@gmail.com> wrote: > Hey there, > I have a similar plan for my work-in-progress clock. What I'm > currently planning on doing is using a PIR sensor I ripped out of a > really old motion detector in my house to allow me to use short-range > motion detection. For some reason, the sensor seems to have a very > erratic output (maybe it's just ambient noise), but what I've found is > that if I take a software average of around 500 samples and compare > the last five sample averages to the most recent one, I am able to > 100% reliably detect a hand swing within around a foot of the sensor. > I plan to use this as one way to turn it on. I also plan to enable > software-based turn-on, eg turn on once every five minutes from > 5pm-10pm or something. The way I plan to actually turn it off is to > first pull the enable pin on my power supply low-all this does is pull > the MOSFET gate low so that the 9v in (well, really 12v due to an > annoying hardware glitch in the ATTiny45) is shorted through all the > nixie tubes. This really isn't a problem as they won't even conduct at > this voltage. Then I can turn all of the nixies off. > > If you want me to post the processing+wiring code for my motion sensor > I can do that. > > On Jan 23, 10:23 am, tunes <d.kuril...@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > > > > *Its been a long time since I built the wonderful Jeff Thomas WWVB Radio > > Controlled Nixie Clock. I was never able to get the modified Quartex module > > to get a reliable receiver lock to keep the time accurately and I > > reluctantly retired the clock over 5 years ago. Recently however, I was > > able to source another receiver and for the hell of it removed the larger > > ferrite antenna and tank cap and replaced the one in the modified Quartex > > module. The clock synchs perfectly now and it is keeping time to the second > > even through a snow storm for more than a week. I am amazed that it was > > just the antennae. I have two more unpopulated PCBs and parts and plan to > > build 2 more beauties.* > > > *The only problem now with the clock is that the tubes are very expensive > > and I want to preserve their longevity.* > > > *I wonder if anyone can help me interface either an IR remote control to > > switch the HV to the display on and off to permit continued time keeping > > with the display off. This would increase tube life since I am never home > > from 7AM to 7 PM and can turn off the display during the day. > > Alternatively, an IR/Heat sensing PIR motion detector could, via a small > > relay, turn the display off and on with movement in the room. Perhaps this > > would be a more sophisticated solution. Looking at the attached schematic it > > appears that the switch could be placed between the step up transformer HV > > rail either before or after the Neon indicators. If placed after the > > indicators the neons would stay lit indicating the clock was still running > > albeit in display off mode. Thanks for any help or providing another > > resource to help me solve this issue.* > > > *The schematic can be seen here > > **http://www.amug.org/~jthomas/wwvb.html*<http://www.amug.org/~jthomas/wwvb.html> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
