thanks it sounds like fun my kids would love doing that

mike

On Sep 30, 1:06 pm, Adam Jacobs <[email protected]> wrote:
> Very well put, John. I was thinking along these lines as well. You don't
> need to have a nixie to start a nixie clock project. In fact, the nixie
> can be the very last component. You might even have a stage with
> 7-segment LED's and 7-segment BCD drivers to get your clock code up and
> running. One could replace the 7-segment drivers and LED's with 74141's
> and nixies at a later stage, once the BCD and blanking was working
> correctly.
>
> -Adam W7ATJ (soon AJ9D)
>
> On 9/30/2011 6:41 AM, John Rehwinkel wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >> Hi mike, you might have considered this and rejected it, but how about
> >> doing your first clock with numitrons? They don't require the elevated
> >> voltage and small ones can be bought off ebay cheaply.
> > Another idea is to go ahead and use a 74141 type drivers with an ordinary 
> > five volt supply and ten LEDs with a 1k anode
> > resistoror or even small incandescent lamps (you can chop up a holiday 
> > light string to get cheap bulbs and sockets).
> > This could be done cheaply or even free.  A dead ethernet hub will 
> > generally get you a five volt supply and several
> > LEDs.  You can get a 74141 chip for a buck or so.  You can start lighting 
> > LEDs even before you round up a driver chip.
>
> > Once you have that, you and your kids can manually tie the various input 
> > pins to the positive supply or ground,
> > and see how the chip works to drive a single output at a time.
>
> > You could proceed forward in two ways.  You could add a microprocessor and 
> > work out how to program the micro
> > and light up the LEDs or bulbs.  Or you could try to scrounge up a high 
> > voltage supply and some small neon bulbs.
> > Supply the neons with your HV supply, and change the anode resistor to 470k 
> > or so, and your 74141 will light them
> > instead of the LEDs.
>
> > Then, when you find a nixie tube, you can just swap it for the neon bulbs, 
> > and change the anode resistor appropriately,
> > still using the same 74141 chip to drive it.
>
> > This way, you have something up and running soon and cheaply (I find this 
> > the best encouragement), you start with
> > safe low voltage, and you can learn about microprocessors a step at a time.
>
> > If you add a second 74141 or a pair of anode drivers, you get a two-digit 
> > display, which is sufficient for getting
> > started with a thermometer.  You can quickly learn to read a column of ten 
> > lights (LEDs or neons), or you can
> > arrange for them to shine through digit cutouts.  This is exactly how the 
> > display worked in some HP frequency
> > counters:
>
> >http://www.hpmemory.org/wa_pages/wall_a_page_11.htm
>
> > As you can see, I'm a big fan of getting something working at an early 
> > stage, doing things on the cheap, and
> > electronics in general.
>
> > - John KG4L

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to [email protected].
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
[email protected].
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Reply via email to