> It is safe to say that anyone who has worked with vacuum tubes will tell
> you, "Don't do it!"
>
> Here are three reasons:
>
> 1. The tube leads are not consistently plated at the tube exit point, so
> expect to not be able to use more than half of the tubes that you buy.
> I've personally examined the lead plating on a thousand of these tubes
> under a microscope. Some of them are shiny, and others look like they
> have spent their life in the salt air.
>
> 2. Soldering the tube that close to the glass will produce thermal
> stress that is likely to vent the neon on some noticeable fraction of
> the tubes you install. This, combined with #1, will make for a very
> frustrating assembly experience.
>
> 3. You will not be able to replace a tube. The tubes do go bad now and
> then, so replacement is necessary. There is no way to extract the tube
> from the PC board if you have to remove the solder from 14 tiny holes
> and break the lead-to-hole solder connection on all of them at once. You
> can try sucking out the solder, but you won't get it all. Plated-through
> holes will pull out, and the board will be ruined. Again, I speak from
> experience removing parts from PC boards.

Replacing the tubes will indeed not be the best experience, but I
think it can be done without doing damage. For sure I would prefer the
cut out slot as you mentioned below. This board is only for trial, and
I won't know unless I try. I have used quite a few vacuum tubes before
and always in sockets. What I remember is that you can't solder a wire
to the pins of those tubes, or at least I couldn't do it with the
tools I used at that time.


>
> A better way would be to cut a slot in the PC board where the mass of
> leads passes through, and fold the leads over to both sides, soldering
> them to narrow rectangular pads like a surface mount device. That would
> solve all three of the above problems.
>
> --
> David Forbes, Tucson AZ

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