I had your problem, but I was in luck because mine were still breadboarded. Turned out my supply voltage was too high. I had to lower it from 200 to 170 volts, and the problem was solved. I would suggest turning your tube off via 74141, and then lowering your supply voltage untill the haze disappears. After that, recalculate your anode resistors and replace them. That's what I did, and it worked like a charm.
On Apr 25, 9:06 am, StoopKid <[email protected]> wrote: > http://i.imgur.com/iXRL7.jpg > Here's an image of what I'm talking about. To get rid of the haze I have to > be below 139v across just the tube. To light up the tube I have to be above > 143v across just the tube. The problem seems to follow the tube when I swap > it. Should I have something in my circuit to drain this current when the > tube isn't on? > > > > > > > > On Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:40:48 PM UTC-7, StoopKid wrote: > > > I'm using 6 IN-14's and 6 russian 74141 equivalents. My PCB is already > > made and when I want a tube to be blank I just throw it an invalid code. > > But now I'm realizing that this it making them appear hazy instead of off, > > like all of the digits are firing between one another. This goes away if I > > turn down my voltage but to make it stop, I have to turn down the voltage > > low enough so that some of the numbers don't completely light up. Is there > > anything I can do about this? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
