Its the 10 hours position ? Not the 10s minutes or 10s second ? Blanking 
those would just look weird. If so, that digit only light 0 & 1, in 12-hour 
mode, or 0, 1, & 2 in 24-hour mode. Why then use the 74141 at all ? If you 
do, then a quick fix would be to put a resistor (2 or 3, depending on 12/24 
hr mode) across the anode, to the connected cathodes. Leave all other 
cathodes (3-9) disconnected. Calculate it so the drop across the 
anode-cathode is less than 120V. Say the anode resistor is 10K, the supply 
is 180V, and the zener break-over is 55V. 180V-120V-55V=5V. That means 
calculate the bleed cuurent so 5V is dropped across the anode resistor. If 
its 10K, the bleed is 5V/10K=0.5mA (500uA). This "bleed" is the "off" 
current. 120V/500uA=240K. So stick 220Ks across anode to each used cathode. 
That's ANODE, NOT Supply !

If its 12-hour mode try this scheme:

http://threeneurons.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/hour_blk.gif

Found on this page:

http://threeneurons.wordpress.com/nixie-power-supply/

On Tuesday, June 26, 2012 2:25:59 PM UTC-7, Jonathan wrote:
>
> Hi all, 
>
> I'm making my first clock that has to be set by the user instead of self 
> setting. And the leading digit needsl to be blanked, as the woman it is for 
> doesn't want to see the zero. 
>
> Anyway, I am using the blanking feature of the 74141 for the first time. 
>  It seems that some of them don't blank as well as others and to get them 
> all to blank I have to dial the anode voltage down or lower tje pwm duty 
> cycle which prevents max brightness during the day. One of the 74141s 
> blanks well and so does a Russian equivalent that i have. So, am i doing 
> something wrong and is there anything I can do about it? I suppose I can 
> cherry pick through my stash for chips that blank well. 
>
> Thanks! 
>
> Jonathan 
>
> ***************************** 
> Some people are like a slinky - not really good for anything but you still 
> can't help but smile when you shove them down the stairs. 
> ***************************** 
>

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