Hello Alek, Thanks for info!
Take your time, Dalibor Farny http://dalibor.farny.cz Sent from my HTC -----Original Message----- From: Alek onet <aleksander_zaw...@poczta.onet.pl> Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2012 11:48 To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Nixie tube making: first glow lamp up and running Dear Dalibor, Photolitography devices are original pieces. It was used for polish industrial nixies, but rather for laboratory scale. When prototypes were good, manufacturing go to Dolam, Wroclaw. I suppose that there were similiar devices, but bigger. I used hydrochloric acid with perhydrol H2O2 and pure water. I'm going to try with molybdenum foil and cupric foil for another parts, not for nixies. I'm very tired now. That's why I must go to sleep. I promise you answer good as quick as possible. Alek W dniu 2012-09-29 09:56, Dalibor Farný pisze: Wooow! Alek, this is really outstanding result! Could I ask You what etching chemical did You use? FeCl3? And how did You agitated the etching process, I just immersed the metal into etching solution.. some kind of spray tank is the best way.. did You heat the etching solution? So the photolitography devices are original pieces? Industry made nixie's metal parts were made using this? I will send You 0.1mm stanless steel sheet to do another test if You want, just send me your address to my email. Could You please send a photo of assembled device? Sorry for so many demands :-) Dalibor Farný http://dalibor.farny.cz sent from Samsung Galaxy Pad Dne 28.9.2012 22:06 "Alek onet" <aleksander_zaw...@poczta.onet.pl> napsal(a): "accelerated" by Dalibor I tried my photolitography devices. It's very good, even using first time! It isn't simple technology but I'm very glad. In the second picture you have anode of nixie tube prepared from template of polish tube type LC513. Unfortunatelly I had old photosensitive lacquer and thick metal plate (0.2 mm). www.tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/lc1d/fotolito.jpg www.tubedevices.com/alek/pwl/lc1d/fotolito1.jpg Best regards Alek it is not so easy, the total surface of each digit should be constant to achieve constant current and constant brightness of each digit (else You will have to struggle with resistors on cathodes..). Bigger number = higher current.. While this is true, it isn't an absolute. Existing nixies have different currents for different digits (particularlay "1"). Since they're more-or-less constant voltage devices, the anode resistor tends to even out the different current draws. Running nixies from higher voltages with larger anode resistors helps with this (at the cost of efficiency). Some designs actually use current regulation instead of anode resistors, and these will tend to overdrive the smaller digits slightly. That said, it would be simple enough to write code to adjust the digit stroke thicknesses to achieve matching total areas. Note that in some nixies, the "1" digit is made with a double stroke to help with this. And I also like the retro look of original digits ;-) That is a perfectly valid reason. If I were going to clone a nixie, I'd choose the CD-66 with its particularly nice digit shapes. However, if I'm making my own nixies, I'd be interested in making them visibly distinct from existing ones. If I want a CD-66, I can just go buy one (unless I want a CD-66 with 30mm digits). If I want a nixie with Böcklin or Klingon digits, I'll have to make my own. There's also a mechanical consideration - thicker digits will be more rigid and stable, and should survive longer. However, this thickness can be in material thickness or stroke width. Once I have working tube (as close as possible to original) I can play and change things inside.. Absolutely. Coming up with digit shapes is likely not the most difficult problem in making nixies. Have You made something working with mentioned digit graphics? Not as of yet. My original plan was to photoetch them, but I just heard from someone who's making custom variable capacitor plates, and has access to a water jet cutter. I've been pricing the little ceramic rings used as insulating digit separators, and they're expensive, so now I'm thinking of glass and mica as alternatives. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
