John, Funny you should say that about the od TV. I just retired my old tube TV and decided to keep the electronics. I did find some 2KV ceramics caps but the others are either too small in capacitance or don't indicate voltage ( they are quite large though 3/4" in diameter )
I resort to places like taydaelectronics goldmine ebay dipmicro etc. So I have to keep my part selection narrow or according to what I can find. Thanks for the detailed information and reply as always. Take care John On Friday, November 15, 2013 1:07:33 PM UTC-7, jrehwin wrote: > > > Wonderful reply. I really appreciate the link and the explanation. > > I now understand why Michael mentioned his method uses simple parts, In > comparison to JT HVPS - I haven't a clue where I can source 4700pf 3kv > ceramic capacitors hah! > > I get things like that from old television sets, computer monitors, and > bug zappers. > > Or you can buy 'em from Digikey/Mouser/Newark or various surplus outfits > (Electronics Goldmine often has high voltage capacitors), for example: > > http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/S472M69Z5UR63L0R/1290PH-ND/2356826($3.78 > for ten) > > > Is that last 3kv ceramic to smooth things out? > > Looks that way. > > > In some respects the 4093 derived pulse and cheap parts almost beats > playing with slightly harder to find parts using the AC pulse, And trying > to solder to the tiny foot print of the HVPS.... Rather interesting. > > It is easier to just use the built-in connector on the HVPS instead of > tacking wires to it. Like many of these things, it depends on what's > important to you. > > > Is the inductor choice critical in terms of current or would a simple > axial lead inductor work? > > The current is tiny, and the waveshaping function is non-critical, so an > ordinary axial lead inductor should be fine. > > > Does one adjust the voltage resistor to get 200V DC output from the HVPS > and then add the 100Kohm preload or what is meant by preload? > > The HVPS has trouble staying regulated without a load on its usual DC > output - that's what the 100KΩ resistor is for - just to provide a minimal > load. Attach it first, then adjust for 200V (for Vadjust to ground, this > works out to around 470Ω). > > > Would 1N49378 diode suffice? > > Yeah, a 1N4937 should be fine. I just buy UF4007 diodes in bulk (100 for > $17) and use 'em for everything. > > > "For doubler DNI C3 and bypass CR3" - Is that electrical engineer terms > for omit C3 and CR3(Diode)? lol > > Yeah, DNI means "do not install", and "bypass" (in this context) means > "replace with short circuit". > > > As for AC out routing comment, How far did he anticipate a person should > or would place their connections in relation to the HVPS it self? > > Since it's a high frequency, high voltage signal, it's going to suffer > capacitive and possibly corona loss fairly easily, so it would be best to > keep such wires short. His routing comment refers to the fact that the > high voltage AC output can couple back into the power supply's feedback > circuitry and cause trouble - so the wire from the AC output should be > routed away from the board. > > > More questions then I came in with originally, Always some thing new! > > Questions and answers are how we all learn (both the people asking them > and the people answering them). Bring 'em on! > > - John > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/292ec526-6912-4aeb-927c-a8ba48a8ab4a%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
