Yes, the aspirin trick is a great one on the enameled
wire!   I think of this place every time I use it.

I've built many circuit cards on Vector #3677 plugboards.
They are about 4.5 inch x 9.5 inch, and they have
a 22/44 edge connector, and a hole pattern for 3 columns
of ics.

I use #30 ga wirewrap wire as soldered jumpers.
I run the jumpers on the top side, leaving the
solder side being just the solder joints.

One really nice advantage of the Kynar insulation is
that it has a very small amount of "shrink-back" when
soldered.   I have found that many other wires such as
stranded wires from ribbon cable tend to have lots
of shrink-back, which can be a real pain.

I also tend to juice up most of my solder joints with
a little extra flux to make the solder flow easily.
I use some special non-conductive flux for these boards
with the tiny close-spaced traces.

Yeah, they are through-hole parts, and that stuff is
plenty small enough for me!   I have not worked on SMD
yet, and do not especially relish the thought of it.

Chuck



>
>
>---- Original Message ----
>From: a...@jacobs.us
>To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: resistance of filament warm vs cold
>Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2013 17:44:12 -0800
>
>>Yes, but why use enamel coated wire in the first place? I've only
>ever used
>>it for winding inductors and transformers. I hate the stuff. Dipping
>in
>>molten solder usually works to remove the enamel, with a clean-up
>pass
>>using sandpaper.
>>My favorite protoboard wire is the old 80-wire PATA ribbon cables.
>In
>>Seattle, I can buy the ribbon cable for $1, giving me quite a bit of
>good
>>wire for the price. The wires easily separate with fingernails and
>the
>>insulation easily strips with fingernails too. Avoid the 40-wire
>version,
>>those use stranded wire instead of solid-core.
>>
>>-Adam
>>
>>
>>On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 3:02 PM, AlexTsekenis
><alextseke...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> For any diameter of enamel-coated wire larger than a strand of
>hair, the
>>> burnt enamel should be removed to expose the copper. Otherwise
>solder
>>> wetting will be poor and the soldering process frustrating.
>>> You can do this using fine sandpaper, a file, or a sharp knife.
>Burning
>>> the enamel first makes removal easier. For thin wires the
>soldering iron is
>>> adequate. Larger diameters require a lighter. Even large diameters
>a small
>>> blowtorch. Tin the wire prior to soldering using a generous amount
>of flux.
>>> This will also show you if you did a good job scrapping off the
>burnt
>>> enamel.
>>>
>>> Alex
>>>
>>> On Sunday, December 8, 2013 10:55:05 PM UTC, Gideon Wackers wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Well the first board is filled with tubes, and my head is filled
>with
>>>> headache from peering at the board.. The enameled wire was very
>hard to
>>>> solder even after burning off the enamel layer. Although I do not
>dare to
>>>> show the abomination that I call "soldering" the tubes are all
>connected.
>>>> Don't worry I know how to solder, but the enamel wire was giving
>me a very
>>>> hard time. The nice thing about the enamel wire was that it was
>easy to go
>>>> through the forest of component legs. I'm off to bed.
>>>>
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