Thanks everyone! I will go ahead and try measuring the voltage 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 3, 2014, at 5:14 AM, NoCampersFluffy <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Spencer.
> As per Jon's post - there is a little arrow at the bottom of the glass 
> envelope that helps to determine the polarity of he IN-3s.  Arrow points to 
> the cathode.  Details are on the data sheet (in rRussian) on Dieters web site 
> as to which is cathode and which is the anode.
> 
> Did you measure the strike and maintain voltages of the IN-3?  I've found 
> wide variations in strike and maintain voltages even within the same box of 
> 100 tubes. Typical operation in the data sheet is 0.8ma with a low of 0.2ma 
> and a high of  1ma.  If your IN-3s maintaining voltage is at spec (55v), then 
> by my maths you are dropping 125v over the 220k anode resister which is a 
> 0.5ma current. This is within tolerances but on the low side.
> 
> I have tubes that have maintaining voltages as low as 36v and some other are 
> as high as 70v.   If you run the math you will find that you can lower the 
> anode resister to 180K, and even lower for tubes with higher maintaining 
> voltages (probably best not to go below 150K!). I try and run all of my IN-3s 
> as close to the 0.8ma spec as possible - but this is for consistency in a 
> ring circuit where I am also trying to get all of the tubes strike/maintain 
> voltages aligned.   Note even at 0.9 to 1ma I still got flicker and coverage 
> variations in some tubes, but higher current did help with getting full 
> plasma coverage.   
> 
> My own experience is that some IN-3s flicker and the plasma can even form at 
> the back rather than the front of the tube before returning to the front 
> again.  I have also had bulbs where the plasma forms on the wire lead at the 
> bottom of the tube.  In some applications the flickering is endearing, it 
> others, such as ring circuits its down right annoying negating the circuit.  
> Like John S,  I've also aged my IN-3s and it does not seem to make much 
> difference - there are always some that just want to flicker.  If you age the 
> IN-3s then after a couple of hours these "flickering" ones will become 
> visible to you.  Having said this I have aged IN-3 with a couple hundred 
> hours of ring circuit use that decided to flicker and become unreliable - go 
> figure. From what I have observed, increasing the strike voltage or (minor) 
> current changes has no impact, but higher current do get better glow 
> coverage.  There also appears to be no correlation when it comes to flicker 
> between the strike and maintaining voltage differences between tubes.  Having 
> said this beware of tubes which have a high strike and maintain voltages as 
> from examination I often found these to have some visible internal physical 
> variation to a "normal" IN-3 and of course they were no good for a ring 
> circuit.  From aging several hundreds of these IN-3s and building 2 
> ring-counter clocks,  to me it just looks like there are differences in the 
> manufacture between tubes.  IN-3s look to have wide tolerances between and 
> within the same box.  Ive discarded 80% of some boxes and less than 10% of 
> others due to variations in performance - but again this is for ring circuits.
> 
> In your application you are using the IN-3 as a colon separator.  If it 
> worries you replace it.  If not you can call it an extra feature.  One of my 
> fellow workmates really likes the flickering of one lock I have at work,  
> which takes the form of the plasma pulsing, she says it has personality.
> 
>> On Sunday, 2 March 2014 00:17:46 UTC+11, Spencer wrote:
>> Hello All!
>> 
>> I bought these for the nixie clocks, http://www.ebay.com/itm/251373901401, 
>> and they will work for a bit then start flickering all over in the tube, and 
>> lighting up in odd places and not where it should be lighting up!
>> 
>> An example can be found at, http://imgur.com/O32rVBi . Only the left side is 
>> light up, the little light has a mind of its own and has traveled to the 
>> back of the tube.
>> 
>> I am feeding the little guy +180V and the anode resistor is 220K. I am not 
>> sure if its too much current or what not.  Several have done this to me.
>> 
>> Suggestions?
>> 
>> Thanks!
> 
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