You see I am a chinese,and I had a lot of "NOT FAKE LM9022 made by NS" all brand new in org pack,and as me experiance in driving VFD stuffs ,I only used this chip in one project,and I think this chip is too old for the current tech,by using only two mosfets and drived via a MCU tim can replace this old chip easily .Try to check the new circuit via my web site for driving VFD. http://vfdclock.jimdo.com
And btw,If somebody really need this old chip for <100pcs,I have it.contact me. 2014-05-20 15:50 GMT+08:00 <[email protected]>: > Today's topic summary > > Group: http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l/topics > > VFD power supply plans or kits? [7 Updates] > About this type edge lit display. [10 Updates] > > VFD power supply plans or kits? > > petehand <[email protected]> May 19 01:58AM -0700 > > LM9022 - tens if not hundreds of thousands of them available here - > > http://www.chinaicmart.com/buyer/search.html?sel1=1&keyword=LM9022&Submit.x=0&Submit.y=0&Submit=Submit > > > > David Forbes <[email protected]> May 19 09:26AM -0700 > > I wonder about those listings. Is there any reason to believe that these > parts are real? Why would some random Chinese company happen to have > 50,000 of a National Semi chip that went obsolete many years ago? > > Do any of you have experience buying from this China IC Mart? > > > > On 5/19/14 1:58 AM, petehand wrote: > > -- > David Forbes, Tucson AZ > > > > Spencer W <[email protected]> May 19 11:29AM -0500 > > I've bought them and they work fine. > > > > "Tidak Ada" <[email protected]> May 19 09:02PM +0200 > > It may be they use their own fake chips that they branded NS. There are lots > of fake chips and semi's on the Chinese market and eBay! > > eric > > -----Original Message----- > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On > Behalf Of David Forbes > Sent: maandag 19 mei 2014 18:26 > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: VFD power supply plans or kits? > > I wonder about those listings. Is there any reason to believe that these > parts are real? Why would some random Chinese company happen to have 50,000 > of a National Semi chip that went obsolete many years ago? > > Do any of you have experience buying from this China IC Mart? > > > > On 5/19/14 1:58 AM, petehand wrote: >> LM9022 - tens if not hundreds of thousands of them available here - > >> http://www.chinaicmart.com/buyer/search.html?sel1=1&keyword=LM9022&Sub >> mit.x=0&Submit.y=0&Submit=Submit > > -- > David Forbes, Tucson AZ > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. > To view this discussion on the web, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/537A30AC.5070309%40dakotacom.ne > t. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > > > > Per Jensen <[email protected]> May 19 10:08PM +0200 > > >> It may be they use their own fake chips that they branded NS. There are >> lots >> of fake chips and semi's on the Chinese market and eBay! > > Maybe we can persuade Spencer to hit one with the propane torch, until the > epoxy case is burnt to a white crisp, then it's easy to remove the die from > the mess, clean it in alcohol and then put under a 100x microscope to check > for die markings. > > // Per. > > > > Spencer W <[email protected]> May 19 03:13PM -0500 > > I would be more than happy if you want to send a 100x microscope to me or I > can throw it to someone that does have one on the list. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > David Forbes <[email protected]> May 19 01:26PM -0700 > > I have access to some nice microscopes at my lab at the University. I could > take > a photo of it and post it, as I don't look at enough bare dice to be able to > identify 1980s silicon artwork from the modern Chinese stuff. > > > On 5/19/2014 1:13 PM, 'Spencer W' via neonixie-l wrote: > > > > About this type edge lit display. > > petehand <[email protected]> May 19 01:39AM -0700 > > <https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-IWUu0t6ko9k/U3nDLaAWO_I/AAAAAAAAAJQ/EqyZQC4SXGA/s1600/pds008001.jpg> > > <https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vpATmPZ5wDM/U3nDOOUclfI/AAAAAAAAAJY/YUW4jOxxBKA/s1600/pds008005.jpg> > > <https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-i22XeRGHqaw/U3nDHipi5XI/AAAAAAAAAJI/xRcJfC0Nilc/s1600/pds008004.jpg> > They are nice displays - I had a handful of them once, that plugged in to a > multi pin socket. > > Now I have a few of these - rather special ones, made by Stanley > Electronics, Tokyo. > > > > petehand <[email protected]> May 19 01:42AM -0700 > > Here's what they were made for and what they look like lit up. It's a > little bartop slot machine, made around 1970, and just 12 inches in every > direction. It was a complete wreck when I got it. > > > > petehand <[email protected]> May 19 01:47AM -0700 > > <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u8DwLE_kL9s/U3nFJK65rRI/AAAAAAAAAJs/JLNhKAD8cxc/s1600/pds008006.jpg> > > <https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I1tQBB_DVtc/U3nEaPZMzWI/AAAAAAAAAJk/laPR0MaAJsM/s1600/pds008007.jpg> > This is what they were made for and what they look like lit up. There are > color filters between the lamps and the acrylic. The machine is a small > bartop slot machine, made around 1970. It's tiny, about 12 inches in each > direction. It was a complete wreck when I got it, but it cleaned up nicely. > > > > Nick <[email protected]> May 19 02:23AM -0700 > > On Monday, 19 May 2014 00:37:22 UTC+1, Dave Brown wrote: > >> Yes-those KGM displays are really quite interesting. >> Has anyone come up with an LED replacement for the bulbs in them? > > I've tried a few, but LEDs have a few characteristics which are not > helpful, e.g. they are pretty directional. > > Also, the dimensions of the "grain of wheat" sizes of LEDs on eBay are not > very accurate - I bought a few different batches to try, as well as some > grain-of-wheat incandescents, and most were a few thou too large :( > > Nick > > > > Morris Odell <[email protected]> May 19 02:25AM -0700 > > Hi all, > > A few years ago I built a 6 digit clock using those indicators. They are > multiplexed and the clock looks terrific. Mine uses 12V flange based bulbs. > The downside is that the bulbs don't last all that long when multiplexed at > the theoretically correct voltage of 12 * sqrt(6) = 30 V (approx). Those > little bulbs are not easy to find. The local professional suppliers (RS or > Farnell) have them but you need to buy 100 at a time. I have had some > success substituting LEDs as the quality and colour of high intensity warm > white LEDs have improved. Once I run out of my last purchase of 100 bulbs > which should be in about a year at the current rate, I'll install them. It > won't look quite the same but them's the breaks. > > Substituting LEDs is not straightforward. The issue with LEDs is that the > light intensity is maximal in one direction while a small hot filament > quasi-isotropically radiates in all directions. The bulb housings are like > an integrating sphere with a slit where the edge of the perspex picks up > the light. If the LED radiating direction does not coincide with the slit > you lose a lot of it so even with very bright 5 mm LEDS the display looks > dim compared to when a bulb is used. Recently I picked up a batch of warm > white LEDs which have short bodies thus allowing more of the light to be > bounced around inside the integrating housing and they are not too bad. > I've got quite a collection now of unsuitable high intensity white LEDs! > > Morris > > > On Monday, 19 May 2014 09:37:22 UTC+10, Dave Brown wrote: > > > > "Dave Brown" <[email protected]> May 19 10:30PM +1200 > > Morris, Nick- Thanks for comments. > The displays I have are in a GR 1123 syncronometer. I need to replace a few > lamps and get one of the counter decade dividers operating properly > again.(That WILL be a challenge!) I was aware from my own experiments and > those of others in similar LED replacement situations that the directional > properties are a significant disadvantage sometimes. Someone suggested > sanding the whole surface of the lens so it becomes 'non-clear' and more of > a distributed source but I've not attempted that as yet, mainly as it seems > too difficult given the small sizes involved, so I don't know if it would > improve things at all. A very small sand blaster, using very small > abrasives, operating similarly to the old spark plug cleaners might work- it > needs more thought, as you can no doubt tell! > Cheers > DaveB, NZ > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Morris Odell" <[email protected]> > To: <[email protected]> > Sent: Monday, May 19, 2014 9:25 PM > Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] About this type edge lit display. > > > > > > Dekatron42 <[email protected]> May 19 04:15AM -0700 > > I have used flat top LEDs which have a somewhat white rough surface, they > are not absolutely clear, and then I placed a small amount of clear silicon > glue on top of that. The clear silicone glue turns milky white when it sets > and that spreads the light some which works quite well in my opinion, not > as well as a filament lamp but well enough for me. I also experimented with > placing a small round piece of aluminum right above the led chip and > reflector to remove the direct light and that helped some but it was tricky > to get a uniform light source. I also used a few standard milky white LEDs > and filed them down to get different light sources, but the flat top ones > worked best. > > /Martin > > > > "Tidak Ada" <[email protected]> May 19 04:54PM +0200 > > That sounds like swearing in the church! > > eric > > -----Original Message----- > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On > Behalf Of Dave Brown > Sent: maandag 19 mei 2014 1:37 > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] About this type edge lit display. > > [....] > Has anyone come up with an LED replacement for the bulbs in them? > > DaveB, > Christchurch, NZ > > > > Instrument Resources of America <[email protected]> May 19 08:28AM -0700 > > Here's a thought. You MIGHT try to remove the bulbs and then break the > glass and gut the base of the bulb, trying not to damage it. Then fit an > LED into the original base. May, or may NOT be possible. I'll let you > guys figure it out. I'd be interested in knowing if it works. Thinking > out of the box can sometimes yield good results. Ira. > > > > On 5/19/2014 7:54 AM, Tidak Ada wrote: > > > > John Rehwinkel <[email protected]> May 19 12:12PM -0400 > >> A few years ago I built a 6 digit clock using those indicators. They are >> multiplexed and the clock looks terrific. Mine uses 12V flange based bulbs. >> The downside is that the bulbs don't last all that long when multiplexed at >> the theoretically correct voltage of 12 * sqrt(6) = 30 V (approx). Those >> little bulbs are not easy to find. > > Dialight offers 12V flange based LEDs (T1-3/4). Available via Mouser. > > - John > > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To view this discussion on the web, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/20cf3005df4671c60304f9d022dd%40google.com. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CALTsSSW4zB1bEUDcBRbGK7pMLnm5tUBjvijom8kMHFx4doGJ3A%40mail.gmail.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
