I am sure! Try it with an Ohm meter. The top is coated and acts as a electrode. It stands anywhere in the datasheets. I have that tube for years in my collection. eric
_____ From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Joe Zatarski Sent: dinsdag 28 oktober 2014 22:48 To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: neon otis elevator 'touch tubes' I was not aware of any coating on the tube, and I don't think there's any connection to the outside of the tube, though I could be wrong. The Otis docs state that the tubes work on capacitive coupling, through the tubes envelope. I do not believe any coating on the tube acts as an electrode. On Tuesday, October 28, 2014 4:18:56 PM UTC-5, Tidak Ada wrote: Is it clear to you all that this tube has a transparent Sn-coating as the sensitive electrode? Rough handling of the tube surface can destroy it due to disconnection of that coating. eric _____ From: [email protected] <javascript:> [mailto:neoni...@ <javascript:> googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Joe Zatarski Sent: dinsdag 28 oktober 2014 20:46 To: [email protected] <javascript:> Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: neon otis elevator 'touch tubes' Attached is the schematic in PDF form. All lines except one seem to be common between all the tubes. Based on my guess of 135VDC tube supply, I think I was right. Tube drops about 72V when on, leaving 63V to be dropped by the total series resistance, 3600 ohms. 63V/3600ohm = 17.5mA. This is below the maximum rating of 25mA according to the 1C21 datasheet. It then looks like an AC supply to the grid would be required to cause the capacitive coupling that allows the tube to work as a touch trigger. I'm not too sure how to figure out this voltage. On Friday, October 24, 2014 10:18:34 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: I will draw up a schematic of what I have in the panel now. I think it'll probably be similar to what the otis docs show: resistor connected in series with the tube, trigger and cathode tied together, and connections for B+ and 'B.O.' (B.O. being the reference line for B+, which also happens to NOT be at the same potential as ground, due to the AC supply tied to it). There seems to be a cap, probably in parallel with something, but I'll take a look. On Wednesday, October 22, 2014 4:51:21 PM UTC-5, Dekatron42 wrote: I think that the best thing you can do is to ask the company who replaced it if they can help you with any schematics, otherwise you will have to draw one yourself from what you have left of the elevator panel and we can take it from there, then you will know what voltages you need and you can do some experiments more easily. /Martin On Tuesday, 21 October 2014 21:00:47 UTC+2, Joe Zatarski wrote: I guess now what I would like to know are some example circuits for power supplies maybe? I guess I need 135VDC, and it needs to be isolated from the mains because it'll also have 150VAC on it relative to earth ground. Easiest to do is get a transformer (if I can find the right voltage output) but how about regulation? Is a properly sized zener diode good enough? On Monday, October 20, 2014 10:41:47 AM UTC-5, Joe Zatarski wrote: So I found an elevator control panel in the garbage. They were replacing a broken one in the dorm next to mine. It appears to have 425A5 'touch tube' trigger tubes instead of mechanical switches. I saw an old thread here about them which had a bit of info. I think you need to connect a 150vac supply between ground and the cathode, then 135vdc across the anode and cathode to use them as a touch button. There needs to be some resistance in series with the tube of course, and the 135vdc needs to be isolated from the ac. Also, I think the trigger input needs to be tied to the cathode somehow. I still have all the wiring in the panel as it was when I found it. There are 12 floors and a basement, so I'm thinking the buttons can represent the hour of a clock as well as an am/pm light. Furthermore, for setting the time, the tubes can still be used as buttons to type in the time. I'd appreciate if I can get some tips on driving circuitry and supplies since these are cold cathode neon tubes, something I have never dealt with before. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+...@ <javascript:> googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] <javascript:> . To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/ <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/22bc4aa3-28c6-4688-806b-a37a52 617d50%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> msgid/neonixie-l/22bc4aa3-28c6-4688-806b-a37a52617d50%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/ <https://groups.google.com/d/optout> optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. 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