I do have LM9022, they are still manufactured in authorized or unauthorized factories in China. But anyway, I am planning on use MAX 6921/6931, but I don't think they have filament drive on them.
On Friday, July 24, 2015 at 6:01:52 AM UTC-4, Terry Kennedy wrote: > > On Thursday, July 23, 2015 at 10:38:26 AM UTC-4, Chaos Hydra wrote: >> >> Well, as a newb, I do not how to do AC filament drive so I settled for >> DC. Since I will use tube play later on, Would you mind show me some good >> resourse explain how to do it? Ｉ appreciate any help! >> > > There used to be nice single-chip solutions for this, like the TI LM9022 > (now obsolete, and the wrong output voltage for the IV-4 or -17). As Pete > mentioned, you don't need to do this for small tubes like these. But if you > wanted to experiment with other tubes it becomes more important. The linked > Noritake document in a previous reply has a good overview of the reasons > they always recommend AC drive. > > There is enough variation in the IV series displays that the normal > methods of dealing with a higher-than-desired filament voltage - multiple > tubes in series, tubes in parallel with single dropping resistor - may not > result in acceptably uniform brightness in a "commercial" product. Even the > hobbyist "IV-17 Smartsocket" board used per-tube filament resistors so the > relative brightness could be adjusted. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/1f4d1067-875c-43a2-9964-261e3ce38c2f%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
