Whoa! Nice. I've always thought 7 digit clocks were more interesting too....hmm.
On Sun, Dec 20, 2015 at 11:41 AM, Mitch <[email protected]> wrote: > On the left is the 15 digit, Union Square, NYC, Metronome clock replica. > Wikipedia has a good description of the clock. It uses 5, HV5530s to drive > the displays, with 4 connected in series to drive the 6 digit time on the > left, and the 6 digits to midnight, on the right, refreshed every one > second. The center three digits are 1/10 seconds and 1/100 seconds, updated > every 10ms. Latch and clock lines are separated for this one HV5530. Thanks > for that idea, Greg. I'm not sure if both needed to be separated, but I > didn't want to go through the trouble to build a test setup, and there were > two open level converters on the CD4504. > > I just finished the programming this week to get a smooth crossfade. > During the fade, which lasts about .25 seconds, 12 digits are refreshed > each 5ms, and no GPS updating is allowed during the fade. > > This clock uses 15, Z583M tubes. The tube boards for the 7 digit clock are > compatible, so several tubes can be used. The center digit uses the period, > when the four digit temperature is displayed. Date and temperature are > scrolled across the display every minute. GPS and PIR connectors are on the > back of the board, and I also added a header compatible with Ublox GPS > boards available on eBay for around $15 shipped. They are so sensitive that > they lock anywhere in the house, so no separate box and cable are needed. > > So far I've built eight, seven digit clocks with IN-14, IN-8-2, Z573M, and > IN-12B tubes, and one IN-18 clock pictured. Both versions of the clock use > the same software, which is up to 57 software controlled options including > automatic DST adjustment, RGB LEDs that turn off when digits are off, light > sensitive brightness adjustment, etc. I can finally say that everything > works and I haven't found a bug in a week! > > On the right is an original Digi-Vista from the early 1970s. I remember > reading about it when I was in high school, but I didn't have the money to > buy parts, so I built an LED clock instead that I still have. I purchased > this clock several years ago. It is in perfect, working condition. The > power supply board was probably purchased, other boards were home etched. > Notice that it has 1/10th and 1/100th second displays. > > After I build a few more clocks for family and friends, I think I'll > design an 8 digit version of the IN-18 clock. They did it in 1971, and a > nixie driven at 10ms is much more interesting to watch than an LED. > > That's it for updates. Thanks to those who helped to get this started. > Except for the IN-18, hardware designs in Diptrace format and software, are > on GitHub. The IN-18 version will be up there, shortly. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To view this discussion on the web, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/fb2e5811-b019-4001-8cb5-cc3a6fc113f0%40googlegroups.com > <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/fb2e5811-b019-4001-8cb5-cc3a6fc113f0%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> > . > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAOX%2BRHJkDAoV7qS8EUCFsk55ef6PtgFDCYeiHwJObcV88jPELg%40mail.gmail.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
