Welcome to an addictive hobby!

I prefer linear power supplies for their simplicity, and to get the 
required ionization voltage (usually 150v to 180v,depending upon the tube) 
you will either need a voltage-doubler or some kind of step-up/boost with a 
transformer. I've used several topologies, with and without transformers, 
and all work nicely.

You mentioned current-regulation, and I think that's very important for 
nixies. Once ionized, a nixie is a current-controlled device; more-current 
-> more brightness. But too much current will reduce the lifetime, and too 
little can cause poisoning problems (from what I've read). I've used 
current-regulation on the driver (cathode) side, as well as the anode. It's 
a very simple circuit (see an earlier post from me); it all depends upon 
which driver you use. My new favorite is the HV5530 , with an anode 
current-regulator.   You can also use a resistor, but I recommend using a 
higher anode voltage to reduce the effect of varying I-V characteristics of 
tubes. For example, my first nixie clocks use a voltage-doubler to get 
340V, and a 82K series resistor to get 2.2mA for 5092 tubes. The drawback 
to higher anode-voltage is more wasted energy, which means higher operating 
cost and heat to get rid of.  Lastly, dont worry about the extra cost of a 
current-regulator. Nixies are getting more expensive and harder to find, 
and will be the most valuable item in your device.

If you are going to design your clock, I recommend starting with expendable 
tubes such as IN-1. Then, when you have a design you are satisfied with, 
adjust the current to the desired tube.

And be sure to check out dekatrons and magic-eye tubes....

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