If your tubes are socketed (assuming they are, because they re IN-18), it's 
probably best to run them from a separate supply. If your supply has 
current-limiting, this is easy: Just set the voltage higher than the 
ionization voltage of the tube (around 160-180), then increase the current 
to the desired level. Be careful removing/inserting IN-18's; they have soft 
pins that are easy to bend and it probably doesn't take much more to break 
them.

If you dont have current-control on your power supply, add a series 
resistor. A rough starting value would be about 3K for 10mA, and adjust 
voltage accordingly. Be sure to monitor the current periodically, because 
it's possible that as the tube rejuvenates, the current could increase. 
Also be aware of the power rating of the resistor; 1/4 W will probably fry. 
You can calculate the required power (P=I^2 * R) easily.

If your tubes cant be removed, boosting the supply voltage by a few volts 
is unlikely to be enough to get high enough current for depoisoning (around 
3x to 4x nominal current). If the driver is current-limited, boosting the 
supply voltage will have no effect. If there's an anode resistor, you could 
put another one in-parallel with clip-leads to increase the tube current, 
but you need to be careful. Make sure you know the values of the resistor 
in the clock, and the one you are adding in-parallel. Calculate their 
parallel resistance (R1*R2/(R1+R2) and measure the voltage across it to 
determine the current.

Personally, I've had very little success trying to recover the few bad 
nixies I have (all are 5031); my conclusion is they have leaked over the 
previous 50+ years, so no amount of high-current operation will help.

Best of luck; let us know if you were able to recover your tubes.

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