Here is a schematic. Some notes about it: The filament (aka the cathode) 
should always have 1V across it. It has to be warm. When it is warm it has 
a resistance of about 30R. So the purpose of the resistor network there is 
that it cuts the 12V up into 3V, 1V and 8V (approximately). The filament is 
raised to 3V above 0 because we need to be able to vary the grid voltage 
from -3V to 0V with respect to the filament. So in this case, with the 
filament held at +3V, we can vary the grid voltage from 0V to +3V. When the 
grid is at 0V (-3V wrt to the filament), the lamp is fully off. When the 
grid is at +3V (0V wrt the filament), the lamp is fully on.

I made the grid voltage variable with the little resistor network off to 
the left, just to demonstrate this.

I created the 50V anode potential with a 200K/100K resistor network across 
a 150V nixie power supply I happened to have. BTW, the tube will glow with 
an anode voltage all the way down to about 23V, so 3x9V batteries in series 
would be enough to get a glow out of it.

In reality my 12V power supply was more like 10.5V so the resistor values I 
used were a little different. Also, the resistance from the anode to ground 
is not infinite, so the actual voltage of my nixie power supply was more 
like 220V, which I produced gradually to make sure I didn't go over 50V. 
Obviously an actual 50V power supply would be better!

All of this is just to demonstrate the principles of the DM160, rather than 
to act as a recipe for how they should actually be controlled! I broke two 
lamps while experimenting, in different ways. In the first lamp I applied 
>1V to the filament and it burned out after a few seconds!. Second, a 
filament shorted to the grid so I couldn't control the grid voltage any 
more. The first problem was just me being dumb. I have no idea why the 
second problem occurred, so you have been warned! Fortunately these lamps 
are cheap, but I am concerned that there is no apparent reason for the 
second problem...

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