I also have a Blue Dream with IN-18.  As you say, it is very nicely 
proportioned.  Also, the colon fade and digit fade are among the nicest out 
there.  It is a beautiful clock with lots of features.

It's a bit of a pain to program and I have to pull out the manual and relearn 
it every time I want to do something and have to make notes to remember the 
settings.  Eventually it becomes clear.  The documentation with example 
settings helps a lot.  While I have not had any issues with the clock itself, I 
have lost a couple tubes (originally supplied with Blue Dream) where the tube 
seals failed and tube went dark.  I do blame the pin socket arrangement for 
applying too much stress but it is certainly an elegant design and layout.

In ~2.5 years, I have "refreshed" a couple tubes on the Blue Dream that began 
to cathode poison, beginning with the "8".  My night mode was originally set to 
dim to 20% and I think that might be too low and hasten poisoning the cathodes 
if the clock sees any amount of hours, so I increased the dim setting to 40% 
and have not seen any poisoning for awhile.  

I do have a motion sensor outlet that powers the clock fully off after 10 
minutes of no motion activity, so I think it will help the overall tube life.  
The internal battery that holds the time and settings is supposed to be good 
for ~10 years and this is OK to do per Dieter and the latest manual.  It does 
change the start time that date and cathode poisoning prevention occur.  The 
counters for the display functions start when the power is reapplied.  So by 
cycling the full power, on one cycle, the date may show at the top of the hour 
and on the next motion cycle, it will be different.  On mine, the date will 
show 55 seconds after power turn on time if you set a 55 sec time, 5 sec date 
display ratio.  If you power on and off as I do, you also need to set the 
cathode poisoning cycle to occur at a frequency that is shorter than the 
external motion timer or it will not count up long enough to ever digit cycle 
if the clock doesn't stay on long enough.

One thing that would be helpful for repair is if anyone has a Blue Dream 
schematic that we could keep for troubleshooting.  The brains of the clock are 
in the firmware (protects the design) so it would be nice to at least have an 
electrical schematic in case parts ever fail and need 
troubleshooting/replacing.  The assembly documentation is very nice but 
contains no schematic except for a breakout of the DIN connector for using an 
AUX output.  I asked Nocrotec for one some time ago but never got a response.  
I'd love to add a PIR to the clock instead of the motion sensor outlet to keep 
the display timers alive.

Anyone ever see a schematic of the IN-18 Blue Dream to share?  Hopefully, they 
bring the Blue Dream back because it is really a great looking clock!


Jeff 

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On 
Behalf Of Alic
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2017 12:27 AM
To: neonixie-l
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: IN18 Blue Dream out-of-production until 2019

It's a pity. It's still my favorite IN-18 clock because it is compact and I 
like the proportions (the tubes are on the axis of the board).
I was also secretly hoping that the black'n'wood would become available again.

Maybe things have changed since.
Also, I don't know what others expect from someone who sells nixie DIY clock 
kits as a hobby, but on the rare occasions when I had a question or a problem 
with Claus' and Dieter's clocks, I always received good advice on how to repair 
it myself.

The board of the Blue dream isn't expensive enough to be sent back (especially 
from the USA) and spend hours on a repair.

I never had problems with gas leaks with the nixies I bought from Dieter with 
the clocks.
One set is from '92 as well.

I did have problems with tubes off eBay where the pins were not straight.

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