On 04/11/2017 06:14 PM, gregebert wrote: > I encountered problems with light reflecting off the nixies, and it also > washed-out the glow, so I thought the solution was to photograph in > low-light. Attempting low-light photography led to annoying reflections of > light from adjacent tubes. The picture I use for my icon from my big clock* > looks* horrible, but the clock itself looks amazing. After several > different exposure settings and lighting conditions I was not able to get a > 'perfect shot'. I concluded I would need to use photoshop, etc to get > something acceptable.
This is the pro solution https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dulling-Spray-11-Ounces/24419272?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1453&adid=22222222227025898045&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=52337137695&wl4=pla-79434469695&wl5=21160&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112550049&wl11=online&wl12=24419272&wl13=&veh=sem This is an aerosol spray that applies a slightly dulling coating to the object. It doesn't completely dry and is easily wiped off with a cloth afterwards or for inaccessible places, blown off with an air hose. A second option is to use a polarizing filter. If you plan on using your auto-focus then a less effective circular polarized filter must be used. If you can manually focus then a linear polarized filter will provide a much greater extinction ratio (ratio of light passed to light blocked). Glare is always polarized. You might find a circular filter does an adequate job. If not, focus is achieved and then a linear polarized filter is held in front of the lens and rotated until the glare disappears. Hand-holding the filter can be done but becomes tedious if many photos are to be shot. I haven't found a ready-made holder for point and shoot cameras so I made my own. It's very simple - a length of aluminum flat stock drilled and tapped for 1/4-20 on one end. This goes between the tripod and camera and generally requires an extended tripod bolt. The other end is bent up 90 deg and trimmed until it just barely disappears from the camera's image. It should almost touch the lens when the lens is fully extended. Here's the trick. Choose a filter diameter large enough to cover the whole image when zoomed in and out. Then buy a haze filter of the same diameter. That's about the cheapest thing you can get in that diameter. Break the glass out of the haze filter. What's left is a ring with the proper male and female threads. This ring is epoxied to the aluminum after the stock is curved with a dremel tool to fit the OD of the haze filter. Now simply thread the polarizing filter into the mount and it's done. You can rotate the filter on its threads to see if the effects change. One final comment. I may be old-fashioned but anything that can be fixed in a photo editor is a mistake made by the photographer. I'm not talking about the high end stuff such as slenderizing a model's arms or giving her bigger boobs. I'm talking about stuff that pre-digital would be considered bad technique. Get it right in the original exposure and photo editing won't be necessary except for cropping. John -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.tnduction.com <-- THE source for induction heaters http://www.neon-john.com <-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com <-- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/d51d95f0-31c4-6ad8-dac6-45d8dd4396b9%40neon-john.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
