The tubes I'm using for two different clocks are IN-4s and IN-8s. I found the pulse specs you referenced on the IN-8 datasheet, but not the IN-4. On the IN-8 datasheet, it lists two different modes, A and B. For mode A, which is a pulse duration of 0.1ms, it gives a pulse Voltage of 200V and current of 10mA. It also lists a PMW of 10%, what does that mean?
For mode B, which has a pulse duration of 1-2ms, it recommends 200V at 5mA and the same PMW. Which mode should I use? Is the pulse Voltage the same as my input voltage before my transistors? I will try to measure what current I am at later today. Thanks! On Monday, June 5, 2017 at 7:13:04 AM UTC-4, Tomasz Kowalczyk wrote: > > With most DC voltmeters you can safely assume that it measures the > average. So having average voltage drop on anode resistor and resistance > you can calculate average current, and then multiply it by 6 (if there is a > dimming/anti-ghosting dead time between tubes, you might want to take it > into account) to get the pulse current. > Nixie tubes can operate in multiplexed mode with pulses of current higher > than nominal current - as long as you aren't pushing average current over > the nominal current, it should be OK. > In IN-18 datasheet I found information, that the average current in pulse > operation should be a bit lower than during DC operation. > > Anyway, if your tube is specified for 2mA and you multiplex 6 tubes, I > think you can safely use 5-6mA pulses (~1mA average current) without > damaging the tube. But it would be less guessing and more solid information > if you would specify which tubes are you using. > > W dniu poniedziałek, 5 czerwca 2017 04:06:15 UTC+2 użytkownik scotth > napisał: >> >> First of all, thanks for accepting me to the group! >> >> I've built a functioning nixie clock that uses a nixie driver to >> multiplex all six numbers. Due to my inexperience, I just figured out the >> resistor that I needed to drive a single nixie tube at the correct voltage >> an current, which landed me at 22kOhms. However, as I'm sure you all know, >> my numbers were much dimmer once i got the multiplexed clock working with >> the same 22k resistors. Because of this, I decided to check the voltage >> drop and current of my nixies and got some numbers that can't be correct, >> as it is below the operating specs of the tube. Is it some sort of average >> or something? >> >> I've seen another thread on here where this is mentioned and I learned >> that I could get a more accurate reading of voltage and current using a >> scope (which I don't have). What I'm wondering is, is there a way to >> calculate what the current should be without measuring it? I'm not >> horribly dissapointed that the numbers are dimmer than driving a single >> tube, but I'd like to make sure I'm operating at the nominal current in >> order to maximize my brightness without significantly decreasing the >> expected life of the tubes. Any help is greatly appreciated! >> >> Below is a picture of my anode driving transistor circuit (?) not sure >> what the best way to word that is. >> >> >> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Pw6L5BQQbpU/WTS8TDyz4QI/AAAAAAAAAWs/-k91FOy1jiEE3Dirye3vQ5PH8oK1_ugLwCLcB/s1600/Capture.JPG> >> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/eba43d32-faec-482b-939a-f1b47049498d%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
