IN-1/LC-516 have pins not connected directly to the glass, so stress on the pins shouldn't cause cracking of the tube itself. ElectroNIXclock 4xLC-516 uses a specific type molex connector: https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/zzs525-tz/dc-power-connectors/joint-tech/c5080f-tbe/ I've tried it and it works OK.
W dniu środa, 1 listopada 2017 18:39:00 UTC+1 użytkownik gregebert napisał: > > I have used 0.093" Amphenol connector contacts for the IN-1 and also for > the A-101 Dekatron. From there, I have 3D-printed a socket to hold the > A-101 tube and the pins. A similar socket for the IN-1 could also be done. > > Now, the bad part is these socket pins will take a lot of force for > insertion and removal for an entire tube (all pins at the same time), so I > only recommend this for infrequent insertion/removal. Not a good solution > for a tester. > > When I test my nixies at home, I just pull the tube from the one-second > position of my garage clock and slightly insert the tube to be tested just > enough to make all cathodes cycle thru. Then it goes into storage. > > ------------------------------- > It's no secret I dont like IN-1's, so I never bothered to print a socket > for them. The only thing I have made with three IN-1's is a youtube video > of them going into a microwave oven. They produced a few seconds of the > most beautiful crimson glow I've ever seen in my life, followed by flames > and toxic smoke. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/4cc20544-f269-4bf9-8d36-54c506c41376%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
