The old-school method used was a thermistor in series with the heater
chain, chosen with a suitably high resistance when cold which would
slowly drop as it warmed up to a low operating value.

Tony.

On Mon, 22 Oct 2018 14:10:40 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>Congratulations on acquiring 6 NIMOs !!
>
>I've gone thru all the NIMO filament analysis and came up with the 
>following, which I have implemented in my design
>
>1. Transformer is 2.5V CT, 3A. Triad F301X.. It has dual primaries so it 
>can operate on 115 or 230 VAC mains.
>2. Series fuse 250mA (BEL C1F250). One for each NIMO
>3. Series resistor; empirically I'm choosing 6.8ohms.
>
>The filament is the most-critical reliability-impacting element of your 
>NIMO tubes, so be extra careful to make sure you design with this in-mind.
>Filaments usually fail due to power-on surge-current, just like 
>conventional incandescent bulbs. The surge-current is the result of the 
>lower-resistance of a cold filament being the only limiter of current. For 
>example, measured NIMO-tube filament resistance varies from about 2.8 ohms 
>cold, to 7.0 ohms when stabilized at 200mA. If you use a constant voltage 
>to power the filaments, you will have significant surge current. But if you 
>add some series resistance and drive from a higher supply voltage, the 
>surge current will be less. With the components I listed above, the surge 
>current is about 260mA.
>
>The fast-blow fuse will protect the NIMO from line-surges, or other 
>uncontrollables.
>
>I'm almost done with my NIMO clock, and I will collect waveforms of the 
>power-on transient for each filament once I get my other tubes (I have 1, 
>need 5 more)

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