Hi, I have some experience building multiplexed Nixie clocks that work
correctly. Firstly, do you have an oscilloscope? It's difficult to
understand what is going on without one.

I found that 190V was sufficient to run ZM1040 tubes with a 10k anode
resistor shared by all tubes. I would have to measure it again to know the
current and anode voltage, because it's been about fifteen years since I
last made one.

Ghosting is a problem unless you time the anode and cathode switching
properly. I turned off the anode, waited a few milliseconds for the tube to
turn off, changed the cathode selection, waited a few milliseconds, then
turned on the next anode. I also used PC board cathode wiring instead of
discrete wires, to reduce capacitance.

I remember that the anode current was 5 mA, and the anode voltage was 140V,
but I could be off.



On Thu, Jan 31, 2019, 4:46 PM David Pye <[email protected] wrote:

> Still testing,and indeed, finding gremlins :-/
>
> Even the copy of Elektronische Anzeigebauelemente Electronica 171 has a
> gremlin in it, being largely misprinted with huge sections missing,
> including conveniently, the section on pulsed nixie operation.
>
> On a slightly different note, when anode-multiplexing, I can't see why one
> anode resistor doesn't suffice, as only one tube is ever on at once.
>
> I was pondering this kind of layout:
>
>
> HV supply->Anode resistor->Multiplex drive circuitry->TUBES
>
> Any reason why that would be ill-advised?
>
> David
>
> On Fri, 25 Jan 2019 at 20:53, gregebert <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Make sure you test the DCDC converter under full-load. Every one of these
>> I've ever designed & built always worked beautifully under low load, and as
>> the load increases all sorts of gremlins start creeping out of the jungle.
>>
>> Some of them are easy to spot, like overheating. Others require you to go
>> poking around with a scope to find excess voltage or current.
>>
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