On Sunday, February 17, 2019 at 3:20:08 AM UTC-5, Sgitheach wrote: > > > > The lite placer builds it in 10 minutes (I don't run it at full speed) as > against a few hours and serious back ache... So pre-fitted SMD parts is > going to be my preferred route. >
Sounds good. > Your other points: > > 1. The E1T needs two pulse inputs. One to reset the tube to zero and one > to step the tube forwards. The reset pulse is a a fairly brute force effort > and not hard to generate. The step pulse is more tricky requiring a > sawtooth waveform for a certain peak voltage, a defined rise time and a > defined decay time. > > More info here: > > http://www.dos4ever.com/E1T/E1T.html > My footprints are all over that article 8-} My E1Ts are of uncertain age and ancestry. Hopefully they all work. If not, I'll have to trade some NIMO tubes for working E1Ts/ > 2. The sleep options are to run the heaters at full power 24/7 or shut > them down completely when a set period of inactivity has been seen by the > PIR (the heater power choice and time periods are all user adjustable > without burning the firmware). I know there are various schools of thought > on extending heater life including keeping them simmering on low power. The > clock doesn't do the latter. My understanding is that the greatest risk to > the heater is when its resistance is lowest when fully cold and so the peak > current will be highest on switch on. So the 6.3V heater PSU slow starts > the output, taking 7 seconds to rise from 0V to 6.3V. If you want a slower > rise then it is not hard to change this period by changing single capacitor > on the main board. > That sounds like a good solution. > 3) The selection of WIFI or GPS is made using a plug in board, both cannot > be fitted simultaneously. The the plug in board communicates with the SAM > using 3.3V TTL (not 5V!). So if you have an external NMEA source it is > trivial to feed that into the connector. I use the default 4800 baud speed, > another speed would require a trivial firmware change. I have designed (but > not built) a RS232 plug in board so that a wider range of external time > sources can be accommodated. > I can probably provide 3.3V, but if there's an RS-232 board available that is probably a safer bet. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/36b75018-4bdd-4bc3-8852-6a62554fa45f%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
