But then the HV5530 is a 12V piece. I use the HV5523, which is a 5V part 
but is also SMD. You can see my reasoning 
here: 
https://hackaday.io/project/28220-one-tube-nixie-clock/log/70572-component-selection

On Thursday, April 4, 2019 at 11:09:17 AM UTC-4, Richard Scales wrote:
>
> Hello everyone.
> Since becoming an addict about two years ago I have built many kits and 
> have now started down the road of building my own clock - albeit a very 
> simple one.
> My query centres around the use of 74141's (or the Russian version) as 
> direct drivers for tubes.
> From what I have tried so far they seem to work well for all small tubes 
> as well as Z566M, IN-18's and Dalibors tubes.
> I know that the issue of the Blue Spot on IN-18's when driven from 74141's 
> has been the subject of much discussion here.
> I have a box of IN-18's and I know that at least one of them showed some 
> good looking blue spot(s) when initially tested. I looked in to using an 
> HV5182 in place of the 74141 and that worked well with all tubes though the 
> IN-18 that had the blue spot before, still had the blue spot. I had Vpp on 
> the HV5812 set to about 76V.
> I now learn that that HV5812 as an issue sinking much over 3.5mA when 
> connected to the cathode of a digit when the Anode is connected to 170v via 
> a suitable series resistor.
> Can anyone advise as to whether I am backing the wrong horse by looking at 
> the HV5812 and whether or not i need to move to another driver such as the 
> HV5622 which I note is used in a lot of designs that drive IN-18's?
> For this project I only need to drive two tubes so the HV5812 is ideal in 
> that respect.
> I am aware of various solutions involving the use of transistors for 
> switching but would like (if possible) to keep the project as simple as 
> possible. The HV5812 is available in a DIL package which I like, I believe 
> that the HV5622 is only in available in the 44 pin square package (SMD or 
> socket).
> All pointers gleefully received!
>
>

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