That's exactly what I was thinking Jeff.  That's part of the reason I
didn't think tubes like that soldered into a board were worth much.
They're halfway ruined already and by the time you might get some tubes out
unscathed they'll most likely be not really in the best shape.  I've
considered getting a board preheater.  If I see a decent one used I might
pick one up.  The hot air pencil does wonders.  For really temp sensitive
electronics... boards are always usually preheated in a production
environment.

Thanks I appreciate other thoughts about stuff like this.  Unless it's a
tube I just gotta have I think I'll pass on stuff like that unless it goes
cheap.

Bill
On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 7:13 PM Jeff Walton <jwalton...@gmail.com> wrote:

> You don't have many options.
>
> Heating the pins of the tubes without heating the glass will stress the
> seals.  The pins weren't generally meant to be soldered, just don't leave
> the heat on too long.  In the good old days, the rework people actually
> heated the entire PCB from the bottom to recover parts and the removal is
> faster than doing it pin by pin.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Bill Notfaded <notfad...@gmail.com>
> Date: 4/28/19 9:03 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: neonixie-l <neonixie-l@googlegroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: More crazy because of anime movie...
>
> I've got a metcal MX5000 and Haako hot air pencil rework station so I can
> get any solder out but what does the heat do to the tubes?  That's my
> concern.
>
> B
>
> On Sun, Apr 28, 2019, 6:39 PM gregebert <gregeb...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Tugging on parts before they are properly unsoldered causes the most
>> damage.
>>
>> Use a suction-type desoldering tool (Edsyn Soldapult has been my favorite
>> for almost 40 years now). First, apply a small amount of fresh solder as it
>> will help heat the joint more uniformly. Then suck away as much molten
>> solder as possible. Last step is to heat the wire with your soldering iron
>> and wiggle it so it's not bonded anywhere.
>>
>> If the PCB is good-quality with ample hole-clearance, the device will be
>> completely loose.
>>
>> NEVER pry a device off a board; you will break pins (and damage the PCB
>> if that matters)
>>
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