Yes I did send an email to PV detailing my concerns. I am currently
underway with the rest of the build and it is progressing smoothly. I have
no doubt that it will be another great nixie clock to enjoy for many years.

My intention here was to encourage others to double check their kits before
proceeding with the build. It is much easier to spot and fix this before
populating other components.

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019, 1:51 PM jwalton.mn <[email protected]> wrote:

> I hope that you contacted PV about the issue prior to posting here.  Pete
> has been a long member of the community and has produced well respected
> product for years. I would think that he'd appreciate direct feedback if
> something that is not up to par gets out to a customer.
>
> Anyone that is making an honest living based on good service and a quality
> product will probably go out of their way to fix the issue AND the cause.
> But they need to hear about it directly.  If they just dismiss you, then
> post away!
>
> Jeff
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Nicholas Stock <[email protected]>
> Date: 7/20/19 10:58 AM (GMT-06:00)
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: PV clock kit - word of caution
>
> I just checked my elite boards and there are no bridges, so chalk this one
> up to an erroneous solder job.
>
> The number of people who can adeptly do fine pitch SMD work pales in
> comparison to those that can adequately solder through hole.....i’m sure
> Pete does not want to deal with the inevitable messes some people will make
> with these.....just my 2 cents.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 20, 2019, at 08:17, Kevin A. <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Nick,
>
> As far as I can tell, there are no two adjacent circuits that should be
> bridged on an HV series serial to parallel converter. I've implemented this
> chip in several of my own designs.
>
> (Unless its a bodge fix for a board layout error, in which case the board
> should be fixed before being sold as a working product)
>
> On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 10:14 AM Nicholas Stock <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> You may want to check that the bridge isn’t deliberate before removing
>> it.....
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 20, 2019, at 07:10, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> *If they're selling a kit, why not make these chips a part of the
>> assembly too? With a chisel tip and lots of flux, it should be manageable
>> to solder and would be a good learning experience.*
>>
>> I completely agree,  although from a business standpoint I suspect he
>> wouldn’t sell as many kits, as many hobbyists are still  afraid of working
>> with SMD components*. *I know I was until I discovered liquid flux pens
>> on eBay. 😁
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 20, 2019, at 09:56, Kevin A. <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Very nice work with your kit. The curly wood finish is gorgeous.
>>
>> I did rework mine off and resolder them. I'm not IPC certified but I
>> think I did an alright job (see attached).
>>
>> I hope that mine was a fluke. If they're selling a kit, why not make
>> these chips a part of the assembly too? With a chisel tip and lots of flux,
>> it should be manageable to solder and would be a good learning experience.
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 20, 2019, 9:48 AM <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> From closer inspection using my poor man macro lens (iPhone/jewelers
>>> loop) the joints are clearly hand soldered and the right row is a little
>>> questionable. I guess if your driver is lined up properly just use a flux
>>> pen and refresh your joints. I assume these are added by the board
>>> manufacturer so I would suggest PV-Electronics have a talk with them or
>>> find another source.
>>> <image1.jpeg>
>>> <image2.jpeg>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jul 20, 2019, at 01:40, Kevin A. <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> *Correction, 44 *QFP (Quad Flat Pack)*
>>>
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>> <20190719_222916.jpg>
>>
>> <20190719_234356.jpg>
>>
>> <image2.jpeg>
>>
>> <image1.jpeg>
>>
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