If you already have any nixie clock then I would pinch the 170V from there. Make sure you run the anode via a suitable series resistor. Use the specifications for the device to calculate the appropriate value R = (supply volts-maintaining volts)/Cathode Current so a tube with maintaining volts of 140 and a cathode current of 2mA on a 170V supply needs a resistor of (170-140)/0.002 = 15K. I then use a lead that has a female 'socket' which is actually used for breadboard/arduino type experiments to 'clip' on to the anode and another lead to which I have soldered a suitable thick piece of wire that acts as a probe. I probe all other pins to test each digit. All the usual warnings regarding 170V apply (I have had the occasional tingle in the fingers) .. but if you don't already have a clock then as others have suggested, A source of 170V must be found. There are plenty on eBay and AliExpress. I would recommend the NCH6100HV or NCH8200HV supplies from nixieclock.org (go for the genuine ones, there are dozens of fakes/clones). Tayloredge.com has a good range of HV modules at https://www.shop-tes.com/power-supply/
On Thursday, 30 January 2020 18:23:39 UTC, John Snow wrote: > > I have some not-NOS nixies arriving, and they have flying leads instead of > pins - what's the best way to test them prior to soldering them into place? > > I've heard of using a plasma ball to ionise the gas to see if it's still > sealed, but is there a gadget I can buy that clips onto the leads? > > I'd like to check the digits all display before permanently soldering them > into place > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/7a2b5159-5cb4-4e40-ab46-2782f9182b2e%40googlegroups.com.
