Curious - which country are you in with 240v mains?

On Mon, 27 Apr 2020, 17:08 celzey11, <[email protected]> wrote:

> Just went ahead and ordered some 2111 green plexiglass...will try it.
> Other random sidenote, do you think 240v is too high to run the clock on
> (it was designed for 220v)? I'm using a converter. I noticed the filaments
> in the tubes are glowing slightly, and that this can reduce the life of the
> tubes significantly. (I haven't replaced any, just getting it working was
> already a fun challenge as one of the display boards cracked during
> shipment and needed to be patched)
>
> On Monday, April 27, 2020 at 10:28:39 AM UTC-4, Terry Kennedy wrote:
>>
>> On Saturday, April 25, 2020 at 11:06:08 PM UTC-4, celzey11 wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi, the beast finally showed up...and the front glass was smashed. So
>>> again, thanks Terry for not only the excellent write up on electrically
>>> restoring these clocks, but also on recreating the glass front. Sidenote,
>>> have you looked into using real glass to make the replacement or do you
>>> think plexiglass as described in your guide is the way to go?
>>
>>
>> I went with plastic for a few reasons. First, the paint sticks better to
>> plastic, and getting odd sizes of plain glass cut these days is a pain
>> because the seller is supposed to play "20 questions" with you to make sure
>> you aren't legally required to used tempered / annealed / whatever glass in
>> your application. Plus, shipping faceplates made out of glass risks the
>> same damage unless you go nuts making a custom shipping crate.
>>
>> BTW, the font I used is TeX Gyre Heros Italic in 48pt (mostly because it
>> had all of the Cyrillic characters needed). Here's the original artwork
>> (JPG) and the replacement artwork (DOCX):
>>
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