Anyone tried using a hotplate for SMD soldering? (clearly, single sided
only..)

I've seen reasonable reviews of a hotplate, with a chunk of aluminium or
similar as a heat spreader.

David

On Thu, 31 Dec 2020 at 08:35, Mark Moulding <[email protected]> wrote:

> If you're far enough along that you've got more than a couple of
> surface-mount parts (or even one IC), I highly recommend the use of a
> surface-mount oven.  You can cobble one together using a toaster oven and
> an Arduino-based controller, but personally I wanted to make circuits, not
> learn how to make a surface-mount oven, so I purchased a T-962 oven off
> Amazon (there are many sellers of this item).  It ranges from $300 to $500.
>
> There are many modifications available on-line, including a complete
> firmware replacement that appears to fix a number of shortcomings in the
> original product.  However, the only one I really felt was necessary was
> replacing the tape that holds the insulation together internally; from the
> factory, it's basically masking tape (paper), but it's very easy to replace
> it with aluminum duct-sealing tape, to avoid the campfire experience the
> first time you use it.
>
> Once you've done this, it seems to work quite well.  I've used mine on
> several boards now, of sizes as large as 8 " x 5", and it's done a great
> job.  I use only 63/37 tin/lead solder, and for this the built-in program
> #2 is perfect.  Just as @gregebert described, either a paste mask or just a
> conservative drop of solder-paste-with-flux on each pad is all that's
> needed, and everything sort of self-centers when the solder mounts, due to
> the surface tension.
> ~~
> Mark Moulding
>
> On Wednesday, December 30, 2020 at 10:35:10 AM UTC-8 gregebert wrote:
>
>> Reviving this thread...
>>
>> I've spent some of the holiday season using hot-air soldering for
>> surface-mount devices, and the results are far superior to hand-soldering.
>> With good solder paste (I'm using ChipQuick 63/37; there are several other
>> brands) and placing small dabs on solder pads with the included syringe.
>> You dont need to use a stencil; you probably will want one if you are doing
>> several builds of the same board AND you are going to mount all components
>> at the same time.
>>
>> If the PCB has good solder-masking, the solder paste will flow from the
>> masked area towards the pad when heated, so shorts are unlikely to occur
>> unless you used way too much paste. I've also seen some self-centering of
>> SMT parts while the solder is molten, so you dont need to hold the part
>> in-place while soldering as long as the airflow velocity from your hot-air
>> machine is low enough.
>>
>> BTW, I'm using a cheap (40 USD on Amazon) reflow device that holds
>> temperature quite well; adjustable airflow is a MUST-have feature.
>>
>> If you are fearful of doing SMT work because it looks too small, I
>> suggest you give it a try. Find a PCB from a discarded device and test it
>> out yourself.
>>
>> Thru-hole parts should still be soldered with a traditional hand iron.
>>
>> On Saturday, June 13, 2020 at 1:03:48 PM UTC-7 Bill Notfaded wrote:
>>
>>> Metcal 100% I'll never go back again. We use them at work to solder for
>>> space applications under scopes... Well I don't but they do in the
>>> factories. Since they turned me on and I bought a 5k series I'm totally
>>> sold. It's the bomb period!
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
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