Take a look at the B-5971 Smart Socket board. They put most of the electronics 'out the back' on a board which sits perpendicular to the plane on which the tube is mounted. This allows the B-5971's to sit very close together (they are quite small). The same electronics would work for the tubes that you are talking about, you would just need a different tube socket board making up.
[image: B5SS1.jpg] [image: B5SS2.jpg] [image: B5SS3.jpg] The first image is an assembled B-5971 Smart socket, the second shows three in a row, the last image is a version that I used for SP-101 7 segment displays. The Smart-Socket software supports a chain of up to 255 devices. - Richard On Sunday, 27 June 2021 at 20:30:14 UTC+1 Dekatron42 wrote: > Nice, but they are way to big for my project as I need something that > isn't wider than the Nixie itself so they could be placed very close to > each other. > > /Martin > > On Sunday, 27 June 2021 at 20:46:09 UTC+2 Marcin Saj wrote: > >> If I may... >> socket no.3 for LL-55(X) - https://nixietester.com/project/nixie-sockets/ >> drivers: https://nixietester.com/project/nixie-socket-driver/ >> >> Maybe it's something that will help you in your project. >> >> >> On Sunday, June 27, 2021 at 12:57:23 PM UTC+2 Dekatron42 wrote: >> >>> Yes, driving simple Nixies and saving the number of wires needed is what >>> I am looking for (without having to invent the wheel again). >>> >>> I'd like to drive a bunch of the LL-55(X) Nixies displaying letters and >>> also the LC513/A displaying digits in a string of perhaps 50 or so Nixies. >>> I'd be using a few small switching PSUs so that I'd only have to run the HV >>> line a short distance and also to keep the voltage drop down on the HV wire. >>> >>> /Martin >>> >>> On Sunday, 27 June 2021 at 08:26:28 UTC+2 newxito wrote: >>> >>>> Another reason for a smart socket, is that you could use less wires to >>>> drive the nixies. I built a socket for the R|Z568M, so I was able to >>>> control the whole clock (6 Nixies, 4 Neons) with only 5 wires (GND, + 5V, >>>> + >>>> 170V and 2 for I2C) even over a longer distance (about 1.5 meters). After >>>> soldering the GND wire to the metal construction, all problems vanished, >>>> and the clock is now working flawless. >>>> [image: lampclock.jpg] >>>> >>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/c3c27144-8167-46ea-aa86-bb1590aa7bfdn%40googlegroups.com.
