Hello everyone,
I have just managed to acquire a set of these and would ideally like to 
drive them the best possible way.
I had initially though about a 5V for the filament and then 24V for the 
cathodes and grid.
The clock would only have segments activated when someone is nearby - the 
segments will not be left on all of the time.
Now I read about A/C supply to the filaments and wonder if I should be 
going that way.
Would anyone be able to post their findings and/or suggest the right way 
forward?
[image: VFDsnip.JPG]

I just noted that the picture above shows the connection for the grid (pin 
9 on H1) connected to 5V and not the 24V as used on the cathodes.
The more I think about it - the less clear this all becomes!
I need to get it right in my head before I go breaking something and then I 
would like to get the best possible result via reasonably straight forward 
means.
Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction and/or share proven 
drive methods?
- Richard


On Monday, 16 September 2019 at 22:23:47 UTC+1 gregebert wrote:

> Yes! That's exactly what happens. The current through the center-tap is 
> the sum of the anode (segment) current and the grid current. And the peak 
> current through the filament wires is actually *greater* than just the 
> current to heat the filaments.
>
>
> *Tomasz* - As you found out, those VFDs draw a lot of current. I have a 
> future design for a 6-tube ILC1-1/8 (smaller tubes than the ILC1-1/7) and 
> I'm just going to use a high-current filament transformer with the 
> center-tap at GND. Grids will NOT be pure DC; closer to full-wave rectified 
> around 15-16V. Segment anodes will be pure DC around 36-40V with 
> current-regulators and non-multiplexed.
>
> I actually have an Op-amp summer+ADC+Software to monitor the current thru 
> the center-rap  on my NIMO clock to determine the tube health, though it's 
> orders of magnitude smaller (30uA per tube).
>
>>

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