The problem is that a 365nm  LED has a much wider spectrum, definitely 
producing ozone. I have a floodlight with a 365nm COB-LED that I can smell. OK 
It’s a 10W chip, but despite that.

Further, it’s fine to reduce the LED’s burning time to avoid their light and 
color. That’s the main reason to start  with only pulsing during transition of 
the figures. I think the UV pulse may be short enough that it will be not 
visible

 

The UV trick works also fine with dekatrons and other trigger tubes.

 

Cheers,

               eric

 

Van: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] Namens 
Christian Riise Wagner
Verzonden: maandag 4 december 2023 8:55
Aan: neonixie-l
Onderwerp: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Helping Nixie Tubes Fire in a Darkened Room

 

You won't generate ozone with 365nm. You'd need shorter wavelength UVC for that.

søndag den 3. december 2023 kl. 09.25.35 UTC+1 skrev Tidak Ada:

Hi Jeff, good to hear you are content with my suggestion.

 

Two remarks: I  bought at a time small 365nm transmission filter from a seller 
at either AliExpress or Banggood. That reduces the amount of visible light 
considerabele. Second, make that the UV flash only during a short period around 
the firing of the of the nixie segments. That will reduce the production of 
ozone considerable.

 

Cheers,

               eric

 

Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPhone





Op 3 dec. 2023 om 08:09 heeft Jeff Walton <[email protected]> het volgende 
geschreven:



I've done some testing with common 3mm UV LEDs that are in the 395nM range.  
Running them at ~5mA provides a dim purple color light that when placed under 
or in front of the tube actually makes the reliability of the ignition very 
stable.  Even in a fully darkened room, the segments and decimal points light 
reliably.  

 

This particular tube (MG-17G) has segments with no anode screen in front of the 
tube, so they seem to behave a little differently than a regular nixie.  I also 
found that if I placed fingers on the sides of the tubes while operating, the 
segments lit more reliably.  I think that I will go for an LED under each tube 
but powered just enough to make the tubes work better and not to try to supply 
any visible base lighting.  I will try 365nM LED's when they arrive and may use 
them if there is less noticeable, visible light.

 

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

Jeff

 

On Wednesday, November 29, 2023 at 8:43:48 PM UTC-6 Jeff Walton wrote:

I've recently come across a situation where I have some tubes in a clock that 
are being directly driven and are having trouble starting when the room is 
darkened but light right up when a room light is turned on.  These particular 
tubes were probably intended for use in a calculator.  They are seven segment 
neon MG-17G tubes.  Once the tubes have any of the segments lit, there is 
really no issue with the performance.  It's when the tubes go completely dark 
if a space is used while scrolling a message or lighting a dash on and off to 
emulate a colon.  I'm wondering if others have found any particular tricks to 
help convince tubes to light up.  There is no "baselighting" and the HV is 
~172v.  I'm considering increasing the HV by 10-15v but don't want to over 
drive the tubes.  Short of putting a radioactive source in the vicinity, are 
there other things that anyone has had any luck with?

 

Jeff

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