I actually want to drive 2 IN-9s and 2 IN-13s. I hadn't realised IN-9s took
so much current so I might change that to 4 IN-13s.
I've ordered one of Max's supplies to experiment with but some of those
modules would save me some work too.

I want to make an animated version of the BoP helmet, with the bars above
her forehead replaced by VU-meter tubes.

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/catalog/product/view/id/6206/s/the-machine-bride-of-pinbot-flyer/category/101/


On Thu, Nov 21, 2024 at 3:36 AM Richard Scales <[email protected]>
wrote:

> That's really neat.
>
> I have had a project like this planned for several years but have not got
> round to doing anything much about it.
>
> Are you willing to share your schematic and code?
>
> I really want to build a 20 channel device to be both a spectrum analyser
> and to perform various graphic display routines.
>
> I had planned to use a Teensy running with their FFT library - what are
> you using?
>
> - Richard
>
>
> On Thursday, 21 November 2024 at 03:28:43 UTC Zachary wrote:
>
>> [image: IMG_20240820_221627_635.jpg][image: IMG_20240820_221627_609.jpg]
>>
>> So it's these little 21x24mm module I designed based on the common driver
>> circuit for IN-13s I could find online (it should also work with IN-9s but
>> I don't have any) with an I2C DAC. It fits on a breadboard and multiple can
>> be chained in series with U-shaped headers
>> https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/640-BG305-06A0500LD. The space
>> between tubes on chained modules is about 12mm.
>>
>> The transistor I'm using is a MJD340, the op amp is a MCP6001 and the DAC
>> is a MCP4706. Not all designs I found online included a potentiometer but
>> I'm glad I put one since the tubes I got on eBay varied wildly in glow
>> length at the same resistance.
>>
>> Initially I 3D printed some little clamp holders to hold the tube in
>> place above the board (the notch is to help align the clamp as I planned on
>> gluing it directly on the PCB instead of using screws) but I couldn't get
>> multiple tubes in a row to stand perfectly straight so I scrapped that.
>> After a lot of trial and error I discovered that by far the best way to get
>> a straight row is simply to use good old tie-wraps (which you can see in
>> the video bellow).
>>
>> This is only my second PCB (and the first one that actually works) so
>> there are some problems I would fix if I were to do a revision. I would put
>> the GND pad next to the 150V one instead of the SDA (which I didn't do
>> because I couldn't find a way to route it neatly). I would also maybe make
>> it smaller as I don't need the empty space on the top (which was to glue
>> the clamp holder). But by far the biggest drawback with this is that the
>> DAC I'm using has a fixed address. On the datasheet it says that there is 8
>> available, and it wouldn't be a problem if that was actually the case (as I
>> am making an 8 tube spectrum analyzer), but in reality all electronic
>> suppliers I checked only stock the first four ones :(
>>
>> https://youtube.com/shorts/-yOVEOMO8Xs
>>
>> It is not that big of a problem however, I will just use 2 buses with a
>> software I2C Arduino Library. Below is a 3D render of the enclosure I plan
>> on maybe building for it if I have the time and if its actually makeable
>> (not sure yet).
>>
>> [image: Untitled_2024-Jun-30_01-06-50AM-000_CustomizedView4724087096.png]
>> On Wednesday, November 20, 2024 at 7:11:52 PM UTC-5 Mac Doktor wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> On Nov 20, 2024, at 6:14 PM, Zachary <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>> I am using a NCH6300HV to power my chainable modules.
>>>
>>>
>>> Tell us more about these modules... 8D
>>>
>>>
>>> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
>>> "The Mac Doctor"
>>>
>>> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>>>
>>> “...the book said something astonishing, a very big thought. The stars,
>>> it said, were suns but very far away. The Sun was a star but close
>>> up.”—Carl Sagan, "The Backbone Of Night", *Cosmos*, 1980
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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