https://youtu.be/1b0WYOfxxpY
a picture is worth 1000 words. On Thursday, December 19, 2024 at 9:24:32 AM UTC-5 Jeff Walton wrote: > A picture is worth 1,000 words… > > > > > > *From:* [email protected] <[email protected]> *On Behalf > Of *Leroy Jones > *Sent:* Thursday, December 19, 2024 2:27 AM > *To:* neonixie-l <[email protected]> > *Subject:* [neonixie-l] Re: Russian IN-17 Nixies > > > > Well Richard, I have completely resolved the issue with wire-ended > tubes. My final solution to this issue > > is to leave the wires full length. Do not cut them! Slip a piece of > small teflon tubing over each wire. > > Then bend out the bottom end and solder to a dual inline (DIP) header. > That way, the tube with the attached header > > can be plugged directly into a suitable DIP socket. On the prototype > IN-17 soldering experiment, these insulators were cut > > to exactly 1.03 inches in length. Then a tiny soldering heatsink is > clipped onto the tube lead wire right at the bottom of the plastic > > standoff that comes with the tube. The 1.03 inch length of teflon > insulation tubing then leaves just enough lead sticking out the > > bottom end to be soldered to the header pin forks. The uninsulated gap > where the heatsink was, is small enough not to be any problem. > > For the first one I used a 12-pin header. Made this by cutting off a > 14-pin header. > > That then allows the tube's lead wires to be soldered down and kept from > crossing. One header pin gets skipped on the pins 7 through 12 side > > so that the same geometry is kept as is on the tube base. This works > out very well. Did a similar treatment on the Chinese QS18 tubes. > > Did same thing long years ago with a large batch of B-5750 and B-5853 > tubes. Those tubes had very short pins from being salvaged from old > equipment > > so for those I wirewrapped on some longer lead wires then soldered those > to the header. By doing this these wire-ended tubes can be easily > > converted into tubes with good solid socket pins. -Chuck > > > > > > > > On Wednesday, December 18, 2024 at 11:52:08 PM UTC-5 Richard Scales wrote: > > I would tend to agree - having made this super small clock for IN-17 and > now IN-2 - put the two side by side and there is no doubt as to which one > is the winner. The only 'issue' with the IN-17 variant is that the tubes > have to be soldered in to position. > > I've been giving away a set of N.O.S. IN-17 with each IN-17 kit as I have > a few on hand! > > - Richard > > > > On Wednesday, 18 December 2024 at 20:22:16 UTC Keith Moore wrote: > > IN-17's are my favorite Russian nixie. They have the cleanest, prettiest > glow of any of the smaller nixies, in my opinion. I am partial to small > nixies, and these are my fave. > > On Sunday, December 15, 2024 at 1:29:54 PM UTC-5 Leroy Jones wrote: > > These are very tiny top view wire ended nixies. > > Lit one up for the first time last night. Very pleased to see that this > > tube has a real 2 and a real 5! > > > > Looks bright and clear. Runs at around 1.2 mA at 170 volts using 30k > anode resistor. > > > > I'd like to hear everyone's opinion and experience with the IN-17 tube. > > > > Any ideas or comments? Thanks. -Chuck > > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > > To view this discussion, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2eec7fc6-2e46-4a41-a329-48eb0da0a1e5n%40googlegroups.com > > <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/2eec7fc6-2e46-4a41-a329-48eb0da0a1e5n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> > . > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/bdf51642-ab14-47cd-9f4c-a58390c2b2b7n%40googlegroups.com.
