Another very informative post, Don. The only thing I can chime in on is
that the Elite, Elan, Essence consoles use a different Eq pot / switch
combo. Same idea, but physically a lot smaller and not as heavy duty as
the Series pots. Also, I think it's Greg Norman at Electrical Audio that
was looking into pan pots.
Best,
Ike
Donald Put wrote:
Jose,
I've just recently taken the maintenance of a Neotek Series II 16
channel console. I'm just opening it to see its state. For what
I've been able to see, It was manufactured in the second half of
1980 or in 1981. I've asked Sytek about recommendations on its
refurbishment, and was answered that they no longer support it.
Later I knew of this list, and would like some advice on the task
I've taken.
Yes, Mike doesn't stock parts for this console anymore, but, luckily,
there are only a few captive items that aren't off-the-shelf. Most
are available from electronics suppliers. Unfortunately, a few of the
potentiometers fall into the category of unobtainium.
Going to the point. I've seen that in the low-pass, low-mid band
pass, mid high band pass and high pass filters for each channel,
Neotek used 5 track potentiometers. I'm concerned about the wear
on them, and, therefore, ways to replace them. Are there direct
replacements of this kind of pots? If I need to use something else
(the resistive element of another pot) to reburbish them, ¿what do
you recommend?, linear?, log?
The guy I bought my Series II from purchased all the remaining EQ pots
for these consoles from Sytek years ago, and I'm not sure if later
styles from the Elite or Elon will work or not. Maybe some of the
other techs who have more experience with these boards will chime in.
There are five components to the original pots: two swiches and three
potentiometers. I have refurbished some of mine, but then went ahead
and bought all the new stock from the guy I bought my console from, so
I ended up just replacing all the EQ pots on the first 16 channels.
This left me with a few spares as needed in other areas. I figured
that I will own this console until I'm no longer recording, so I just
went ahead and did the replacement. I also like the newer pots
because they have center detents.
As for refurbishing the old pots, it can be done. The resistive
elements are 50K log, and I found that they cleaned up nicely and were
OK and quiet when I put them back in the circuit. I was a LOT of
work, though, and I think I'd only do this as needed. Check out the
Caig products line for some good stuff to use to clean them up and
relube them. I think you can do a pretty passable job without taking
the pots apart (I disassembled mine), but I think removing them from
the PCB will make it a lot easier to get a good shot of cleaner/lube
in there. The pots are mounted with the openings facing the PCB,
which doesn't leave a lot of room to get the hose in there to do a
proper flush out.
Brian from Electric Audio was checking on some new pan pots, but I
think the supplier he was dealing with never really followed up. If
Brian is still reading this list perhaps he can give us any new info
if he has any.
I'm going to hand draw schematics of the wiring of this particular
console, and since I'm seeing single layer PCB's, I have the
intention of drawing the schematics of individual channels, ghost
and master blocks. Are there available related drawings?
Mike at Sytek will sell you a full set of schematics for your console,
so it might be worth contacting him. There were a few different
designs so you'll need the numbers off of your PCBs. I might have
some that are relevant to your console, and I'd be happy to share them
if that's the case.
I'm going to recap where needed. Any brand you recommend? Any
opposition to tantalum caps?
I'd recap the whole console including the power supply if it hasn't
been done before. It's false economy to replace as needed in a
console this old. I recapped my whole board a few years back and have
never had it go down since. It's as solid as a rock and VERY quiet.
As for brands, I used Nichinon UPW 105 degree C everywhere I could,
and other Nichinon models in places where bipolar caps were required.
Panasonic also make a nice electrolytic cap and some folks prefer them
to the Nichinon. Whichever product you decide to use, I'd make sure
and get 105 rated caps because they don't cost much more and they
handle heat better.
As for tants, I can't recall running across any in my board. If I
had, I would've replaced them with newer versions of the same or did
some upgrading. I wouldn't use tants in place of any electrolytic.
As for now I think these are the questions that cover most of the
issues I already have, any more questions that arise, I will ask
them at their time. Thanks in advance to all for your help.
Good luck! These are amazing consoles when they're performing up to
spec. and they're really easy to work on. Neotek got it right all
those years ago, and I'm more than pleased with my Series II.
Cheers,
--
Don
--
Ike Zimbel
Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd.
Toronto
416-720-0887
"Studio House Calls" - Repairs and upgrades to analog audio equipment including:
Amek, Allen & Heath, Neve, Neotek, MCI, Soundcraft and more.
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