Hi David
No daggers from this quarter! The only thing I would add is
that what I have found with over a dozen PS-3's that I've known is
that the failures are almost entirely due to assembly problems. IOW
the parts that fail tend to do so because they weren't soldered and/or
mounted properly at the factory. Once these things are corrected they
can and do run for years without any trouble.
Best
Ike Zimbel
Zimbel Audio Ltd
416-720-0887
www.zimbelaudio.com
Sent from my iPhone
On 2010-05-11, at 11:29 PM, David Butler <[email protected]> wrote:
As a former power supply engineer I will weigh in here, all the
while watching my back for daggers!
:-)
In general, PSU designers do NOT underrate components enough,
IMNSHO. This is why so many power supplies dies early, untimely
deaths. The capacitors in particular, tend to bake. If higher
temperature caps can be found, so much the better. In general, going
up a little in voltage rating on caps is OK, SOMETIMES going up in
value is OK too, depends on the design. The idea all around is that
heavier is GENERALLY better. You don't want to go extremely high on
capacitor voltages: they are happiest on a diet of 50% or so of
their nominal ratings.
The power transistors can sometimes benefit from having higher
voltage, power and current ratings, as long as everything else (gain
especially) is the same. Personally I like rectifiers rated at at
least double, if not triple, the PEAK voltage in the circuit. Again,
rating for higher temperature handling rarely hurts.
If the supply in question lasted a long time with no problems, there
is no fault to be placed on using exact replacements either. My own
take is to be conservative by going for heavier parts if the costs
are not excessive.
Just my 50 cents...
db
--
David 'db' Butler
AV Wizard, Audio Guru & Team Leader delivering exceptional
on-time & under-budget results with cutting edge technologies.
Quoting Mike Thompson <[email protected]>:
I have a question regarding parts replacement -
i have a tech who has looked at my Series 1E power supply and told
me he could rebuild it with no problem, but I wanted to make sure
before I handed it off to him if there were any parts that needed
to be specific values (equal to or greater), anything that should
specifically be improved upon when rebuilding, how to make it
compliant to the standard, or any other tips to make sure I get
the most out of it. I know some of you guys had rebuilt them and
I figured this was the best place to ask. Let me know.
------
View the list online at: http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
You can unsubscribe at anytime by sending an email to mailto:[email protected]
with "unsubscribe neotek" in the message body. If you have any
difficulties, or questions --please send an email to mailto:[email protected]
.
The Neotek list is lovingly hosted by Catapult Web. Remember that
any message or reply sent to the list will be automatically
forwarded to all subscribers.
Vive Le Neotek!
Thanks.
------
View the list online at: http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
You can unsubscribe at anytime by sending an email to mailto:[email protected] with
"unsubscribe neotek" in the message body. If you have any difficulties, or
questions --please send an email to mailto:[email protected].
The Neotek list is lovingly hosted by Catapult Web. Remember that any message
or reply sent to the list will be automatically forwarded to all subscribers.
Vive Le Neotek!
Thanks.
