Hi All,
Yes, I'd have to agree with Matt on this. That said, I will once
again raise the point that it is a rare Neotek that actually /needs/
re-capping. Neotek consoles are incredibly easy on caps, and, they were
smart enough to use good caps to begin with, so even a 20+ year old
Neotek will probably have some years of good sounding life in it before
the caps absolutely have to be replaced. Will they sound better with new
caps? Sure, but that partly depends on which ones you use. In the case
of the de-coupling caps (which are the ones on the power supply rails)
it's kind of a judgment call. In an Elite, these caps are 10uf/50v and
usually in an older console these will still measure around 8-9uf and
pretty low ESR, which is within tolerance. On almost any other make of
console of the same vintage, you will see some measure of cap
degradation or failure. Older API's for example used 16 volt decoupling
caps (22uf, I think...) on their 16 volt supply rails and those caps are
/always/ toast. MCI 600 series have a lot of cap issues (and did when
they were fairly new, too). Neve VR series consoles have really, really
bad cap problems due to excessive heat build up. AMEK's seem to be
somewhere in the middle. So, be happy you own a Neotek!
On an entirely different subject, if anyone on the list has an API
512-B module, please ping me off list, I have a question.
Best,
Ike
On 10-10-09 2:22 PM, Matt Syson wrote:
Hi
They should all be replaced, just because a cap is not obviously 'in
series' with an audio signal does not mean it is not contributing to
the sound.
The caps on the supply rails reduce power supply noise and present a
'stiff' supply for the amplifier circuits to work to.
Electricity flows in a CIRCUIT so if the signal is going through a
capacitor from one stage to the next, the current MUST be flowing
through either the supply rails or ground to complete the 'loop'.
Matt S
On 09/10/2010 17:53, [email protected] wrote:
Don,
I had the whole board recapped in June of last year. The caps are
Nichicon (black& gold color) with codes B0809, H0908, A0808, A0837.
The last 10 channels have codes of A9228& M9205, with some 91's
scattered in there too (2 tone blue color). The tech at Primal Gear
is supposed to call me Monday morning. Is it true that the caps that
don't pass audio don't need to be replaced? That's what the owner of
PG told me this morning when I called.
Dave
---- Original Message ----
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: NEOTEK: Black Channel Strip Screw Update and a Question
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 21:33:12 -0500
Hi Don,
I'm not sure what's in there. I haven't pulled a strip out since I
got it. I'm not much of a tech unfortunately. I'll take a look
tomorrow and report back.
Thanks,
Dave
---- Original Message ----
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: NEOTEK: Black Channel Strip Screw Update and a Question
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 2010 19:06:53 -0700
On Fri, Oct 8, 2010 at 6:46 PM,<[email protected]> wrote:
My question is there any way you can tell if a channel has been
recapped?
What are the date codes on the caps? Quite a few of the cap mfgs.
use
a 4-digit number, with the first two being the year and the second
two
being the week of mfg. What make are the caps in there now?
Cheers,
--
Don
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--
Ike Zimbel,
Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd.
Toronto
416-720-0887
"Studio House Calls". Authorized Warranty service for Allen& Heath, Clear-Com,
Drawmer, Soundcraft, SPL and Yamaha. Repairs and upgrades to analog audio equipment
including: AMEK, dbx, Neve, Neotek, MCI, Soundcraft and more.
www.zimbelaudio.com
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