Hi
Many years ago we has a problem with the white Dialistat switches
getting 'crunchy, so we trialled a fancy 2 part cleaner from Canada
which we sprayed onto the switches, carefully following the
instructions. They were super clean and re-lubricated. We then left them
a month and tested them. Still super clean but the plastic had softened
slightly and rehardened so you couldn't operate ANY of the 20 or so
switches we had cleaned. Trial a few switches or pots first before going
'wholesale'!
At AMEK we used to recommend 'Swish' for cleaning and relubricating
switches and pots.
Matt S
On 20/05/2011 20:47, Ike Zimbel wrote:
Er, not exactly. There's two parts to cleaning contacts: 1) Cleaning
them by removing the bad stuff (oxides, sulfides, corrosion,
contaminants etc.) and 2) Protecting them once they are clean. Years
ago when men were men and electronics chemicals would simultaneously
put hair on your chest while removing your skin (or worse) there was
some kind of contact cleaner (forget the name) that would do an
AMAZING job...for a day or so, and then things would get much worse.
Why? Because it would remove every trace of everything on the contact,
include tiny pits caused by contaminants eating into the contact. Then
left unprotected, and, with more surface area than ever before,
courtesy of these nice clean pits, the contact would be attacked by
every sort of airborne contamination around and get far worse. So,
isopropyl is a good, fairly benign (but still toxic!) general purpose
cleaner but in this case, I recommend Caig G-5 for the contacts on the
Molex connectors (can be left on the contacts) and Caig F-5 for pots
and switches. Usual disclaimers, small print etc.
best,
Ike
On 11-05-20 3:25 PM, pete wrote:
so is isopropyl alcohol the way to go here?
pete
On May 20, 2011, at 2:59 PM, Ike Zimbel wrote:
Proceed with caution. I just had a chat about this yesterday with a
colleague in Nashville. I own some D-5, and I very rarely use it. It
is a very powerful oxide remover, and should probably be removed
with isopropyl after use. Check the CAIG web site and follow their
instructions. I prefer to use G-5 (ProGold) in small quantities for
this sort of thing, and F-5 for pots and switches.
best,
Ike
On 11-05-20 2:42 PM, pete wrote:
what is the collective thought on Deoxit D5 on this type of
cleaning we have been talking about (to resolve intermittency
issues)? i have a can of that on hand actually.
-pete
On May 20, 2011, at 11:08 AM, Donald Put wrote:
In addition to all the fine advice Matt and Ike shared, I've found
oxidized IC pins/sockets at times when going through my Series
II. I've also found ICs with bent pins that "curled" up when
someone pushed them in but were touching the socket just enough to
get an intermittent connection. Granted, this is a rare problem
but it's one I've seen a few times. When you pull a channel out,
take the time to remove the IC (if they're socketed on a Series
III), clean the pins/sockets, and reinstall. Even if this isn't
the immediate problem it will go a long way to help you avoid more
issues in the long run.
Cheers,
--
Don
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--
Ike Zimbel,
Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd.
Toronto
416-720-0887
"Studio House Calls". Authorized Warranty service for Allen&
Heath, Clear-Com, Drawmer, Soundcraft, SPL and Yamaha. Repairs and
upgrades to analog audio equipment including: AMEK, dbx, Neve,
Neotek, MCI, Soundcraft and more. Ask about our RF frequency
co-ordination services!
www.zimbelaudio.com
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message or reply sent to the list will be automatically forwarded to
all subscribers.
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