The Mississippi River springs from innumerable lakes and wetlands in
northern Minnesota, where the indigenous Ojibwe harvest wild rice. In an
insane and suicidal world, what could be more beautiful than a rolling
green protest camp full of activists chanting "Water is life"?

We got up early last Monday and made our way to the previously secret
location. It was a construction site: a pumping station along the route of
the Enbridge Line 3 pipeline, which, if ever completed, would send almost a
million barrels of Tar Sands crude every day to US refineries and Gulf
Coast exporters. We were there to blockade, lock down on the equipment and
ultimately get arrested by the police: civil disobedience by around two
hundred people, with hundreds more in active support. Meanwhile another,
even larger group was heading for peaceful and prayerful protest near
Coffeepot Landing, at an Enbridge construction easement where the pipeline
would cross beneath the nascent Mississippi, only a few yards wide at that
point. Those folks are still there, camping on the easement, after the
indigenous sheriff decided on conscience that he could not repress their
action.

I can tell you that it was blazing hot in the sun, that it was fabulous to
lock arms with your neighbors and find out why they had come to stare down
the cops, and that in a world condemned by speed and greed, there is no
better use of your precious time than a pipeline protest to protect the
rights of the people whom colonial capitalism has always tried to
eliminate, in order to create the disaster that is now facing all of us.

Jane Fonda spoke quite wonderfully while I sat in the shade of a bulldozer,
but incomparably more inspiring were the voices of Winona LaDuke, from
Honor the Earth, and Tara Houska, an indigenous lawyer and founder of the
Giniw protest camp.

When the fuzz finally came out in force, late in the afternoon, they were
fast to invade and seal the pump station perimeter, but slow to extract the
activists who had locked down on the machines. Those of us who were outside
the gate at that moment formed a line and advanced right up to the noses of
the cops, chanting for hours till the sun set with glorious colors and they
finally came for all of us. The local jails were full by then, so we would
only get citations. They zip tied our hands behind our backs and dragged us
over to some bare bulldozed ground. As I went down in the dust, a cry rose
up: "Who are we?" Everyone roared back with one voice: "Treaty People!"

A protest action takes bodies and plans, concepts and visions. This action
was exquisitely planned to reveal the water and wild rice at one site, the
destructive equipment at another. The vision was clear: a restoral of
indigenous life in the territory, coinciding with a drawdown of fossil-fuel
infrastructure. And the concept was far-reaching.

If we didn't know it already, we learned at the camp that the treaties made
between native tribes and the early US state were "the supreme law of the
land," enshrined in the Constitution, but honored only in the breach. Those
treaties gave the tribes who signed them rights to hunt, fish, gather and
carry out ceremonial activities on the treaty territory forever, even
though indigenous ownership of the land would be restricted to much smaller
reservations. Today those treaty rights must be extended to entire
ecosystems, because resource extraction, overuse of water and relentless
industrial pollution threaten every aspect of native lifeways.

It takes two to make a treaty, and it takes two to uphold it. At the camp,
indigenous leaders encouraged us to think, not only about them, their
sufferings and their dreams, but about ourselves, who we are, where we came
from and how we got to this place. As the descendants of European settlers,
and/or as citizens of the United States, we have not only rights, but also
unique and important treaty obligations. The colonial capitalist state is a
traitor to its own law. Protest, political engagement and active solidarity
have become ways that we, as individuals and groups, can begin fulfilling
our part of the bargain.

Who am I in the era of climate change? My ancestors came from the British
isles and the Dalmatian coast. I was born in San Francisco, surrounded by
an extraordinary natural environment. Yet today I live in a scorched world,
whose probable destiny became so bitterly clear last year, when the
California fires burned down the home that my family had built with our own
hands. How much more terrible is this scorching feeling for young people in
their twenties, who came in such large numbers to put their bodies on the
line in Anishanaabe treaty territory in northern Minnesota? We shall have
to spend the rest of our lives searching, not only for who we are, but for
a world that we can live in. Neither of these things will be easy, though
they may be intuitive for some. You cannot erase the past, but you can
chose to inherit what still promises a future. In relation to the fragile
and contested sovereignties of the Indigenous, we USians can strive to be
Treaty People.


***


Some links to find out more:

https://www.stopline3.org
https://welcomewaterprotectors.com
https://twitter.com/GiniwCollective
https://unicornriot.ninja/2021/rising-up-to-the-heat-treaty-people-gathering-resists-line-3-pipeline
https://www.nytimes.com/2021/06/07/climate/line-3-pipeline-protest-native-americans.html
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