*"Today the US actually has two separate food chains, each supplying
roughly half of the market. *
*The retail food chain links one set of farmers to grocery stores, and a
second chain links a different *
*set of farmers to institutional purchasers of food, such as restaurants,
schools, and corporate offices. *
*With the shutting down of much of the economy, as Americans stay home,
this second food chain *
*has essentially collapsed. But because of the way the industry has
developed over the past several *
*decades, it’s virtually impossible to reroute food normally sold in bulk
to institutions to the retail outlets *
*now clamoring for it."*

*The Sickness in Our Food Supply*
*by by Michael Pollan        June 11, 2020 issue*
<https://cdn.nybooks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/pollan_2-061120.jpg>Illustration
by Ellie Foreman-Peck

https://www.nybooks.com/articles/2020/06/11/covid-19-sickness-food-supply/


“Only when the tide goes out,” Warren Buffett observed, “do you discover
who’s been swimming naked.” For our society, the Covid-19 pandemic
represents an ebb tide of historic proportions, one that is laying bare
vulnerabilities and inequities that in normal times have gone undiscovered.
Nowhere is this more evident than in the American food system. A series of
shocks has exposed weak links in our food chain that threaten to leave
grocery shelves as patchy and unpredictable as those in the former Soviet
bloc. The very system that made possible the bounty of the American
supermarket—its vaunted efficiency and ability to “pile it high and sell it
cheap”—suddenly seems questionable, if not misguided. But the problems the
novel coronavirus has revealed are not limited to the way we produce and
distribute food. They also show up on our plates, since the diet on offer
at the end of the industrial food chain is linked to precisely the types of
chronic disease that render us more vulnerable to Covid-19.

The juxtaposition of images in the news of farmers destroying crops and
dumping milk with empty supermarket shelves or hungry Americans lining up
for hours at food banks tells a story of economic efficiency gone mad.
Today the US actually has two separate food chains, each supplying roughly
half of the market. The retail food chain links one set of farmers to
grocery stores, and a second chain links a different set of farmers to
institutional purchasers of food, such as restaurants, schools, and
corporate offices. With the shutting down of much of the economy, as
Americans stay home, this second food chain has essentially collapsed. But
because of the way the industry has developed over the past several
decades, it’s virtually impossible to reroute food normally sold in bulk to
institutions to the retail outlets now clamoring for it. There’s still
plenty of food coming from American farms, but no easy way to get it where
it’s needed.

How did we end up here? The story begins early in the Reagan
administration, when the Justice Department rewrote the rules of antitrust
enforcement: if a proposed merger promised to lead to greater marketplace
“efficiency”—the watchword—and wouldn’t harm the consumer, i.e., didn’t
raise prices, it would be approved. (It’s worth noting that the word
“consumer” appears nowhere in the Sherman Anti-Trust Act, passed in 1890.
The law sought to protect producers—including farmers—and our politics from
undue concentrations of corporate power.)1
<https://www.nybooks.com/articles/2020/06/11/covid-19-sickness-food-supply/?fbclid=IwAR3cFDTekNI_D67GL9iijKupR9D7RKcA9DUhheDGElB0kGx5QVpQYm703fM#fn-1>
The
new policy, which subsequent administrations have left in place, propelled
a wave of mergers and acquisitions in the food industry. As the industry
has grown steadily more concentrated since the 1980s, it has also grown
much more specialized, with a tiny number of large corporations dominating
each link in the supply chain. One chicken farmer interviewed recently
in *Washington
Monthly*, who sells millions of eggs into the liquified egg market,
destined for omelets in school cafeterias, lacks the grading equipment and
packaging (not to mention the contacts or contracts) to sell his eggs in
the retail marketplace.2
<https://www.nybooks.com/articles/2020/06/11/covid-19-sickness-food-supply/?fbclid=IwAR3cFDTekNI_D67GL9iijKupR9D7RKcA9DUhheDGElB0kGx5QVpQYm703fM#fn-2>
That
chicken farmer had no choice but to euthanize thousands of hens at a time
when eggs are in short supply in many supermarkets.

On April 26, John Tyson, the chairman of Tyson Foods, the second-largest
meatpacker in America, took out ads in *The New York Times* and other
newspapers to declare that the food chain was “breaking,” raising the
specter of imminent meat shortages as outbreaks of Covid-19 hit the
industry.3
<https://www.nybooks.com/articles/2020/06/11/covid-19-sickness-food-supply/?fbclid=IwAR3cFDTekNI_D67GL9iijKupR9D7RKcA9DUhheDGElB0kGx5QVpQYm703fM#fn-3>
Slaughterhouses
have become hot zones for contagion, with thousands of workers now out sick
and dozens of them dying.4
<https://www.nybooks.com/articles/2020/06/11/covid-19-sickness-food-supply/?fbclid=IwAR3cFDTekNI_D67GL9iijKupR9D7RKcA9DUhheDGElB0kGx5QVpQYm703fM#fn-4>
This
should come as no surprise: social distancing is virtually impossible in a
modern meat plant, making it an ideal environment for a virus to spread. In
recent years, meatpackers have successfully lobbied regulators to increase
line speeds, with the result that workers must stand shoulder to shoulder
cutting and deboning animals so quickly that they can’t pause long enough
to cover a cough, much less go to the bathroom, without carcasses passing
them by. Some chicken plant workers, given no regular bathroom breaks, now
wear diapers.5
<https://www.nybooks.com/articles/2020/06/11/covid-19-sickness-food-supply/?fbclid=IwAR3cFDTekNI_D67GL9iijKupR9D7RKcA9DUhheDGElB0kGx5QVpQYm703fM#fn-5>
A
worker can ask for a break, but the plants are so loud he or she can’t be
heard without speaking directly into the ear of a supervisor. Until
recently slaughterhouse workers had little or no access to personal
protective equipment; many of them were also encouraged to keep working
even after exposure to the virus. Add to this the fact that many meat-plant
workers are immigrants who live in crowded conditions with little or no
access to health care, and you have a population at dangerously high risk
of infection.

*Click on the link for the rest.*

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