The voltage at the battery (across the terminals) will be high for awhile after 
start-up and then drop to 13.2. (13.2 is considered fully charged) Check for 
current output. The alternator output is affected by battery condition which is 
why you must start with a known good battery (Yuasa+wing preferred) I would 
check yours with a load bank. It's possible to substitute a rectifier/regulator 
and have it work since most Hondas back then used similar systems. But no,. 
it's not a recommended fix.  The regulator for that bike was shaped to fit the 
space allowed. I'll stop at this because JP is our resident expert on 650 
electrics. Just ask him. 

--- On Thu, 9/11/08, RustySkills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: RustySkills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Rectifier - 1983 550 and 650 the same?
To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
Date: Thursday, September 11, 2008, 9:06 PM

The one that is on my 550 now is a Shindengen, but it's the wrong
shape and obviously was from a different bike since the plugs did not
fit my harness.

I appreciate the suggestion for the Electrosport rectifier.  I could
certainly do that and it's only a little more money than a used one.
I was looking for the original Shindengen mostly because it looked
correct on the bike.  I'm not trying to win an award for originality
so I thinik I'll continue my testing and verify the rectifier is
really the problem.

I read the voltage should be 14.5 or almost that much above 5K RPM at
the battery.  I read this in a general charging troubleshooting
document that is on Paul's Nighthawk Page.  That's why I suspected my
rectifier.

Thanks for the responses.

Ryan

On Sep 11, 1:37 pm, "Dick MacInnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Ryan
>
> Try herehttp://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/results.php
>
> Dick MacInnes




      
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