I got it running last night. I took everything out again, used some copper wire to clean out the jets and put it all back together. Fired up after a little starting fluid and now starts everytime. I read that 2 5/8 turns from bottomed out are the factory settings? When I first started it, I was getting a littel white smoke coming out the pipes. Is it running rich or just need to warm up?
I wondered why the bottom screw in the picture didn't have a "nob". Thanks for all of your help. On Dec 15, 11:55 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > Yes they are. Looks like one isn't original (nearest) and the stops have been > boogered on a couple of others. Great that you can remove and clean the > passageways. It / they control idle mixture and up a bit past 1000RPM. If you > spray into the hole it should discharge from three holes in the bore > (throttle plate end). Each one is exposed at a different throttle opening. > spray carb cleaner into the small openings in the bore (air cleaner side, one > on each side) and look for liquid coming from the hole the slow speed jet was > in and the the hole the mixture screw was in. Air enters where you sprayed > into and picks up fuel at the jet tower where the slowspeed jet was and > continues through to the bore. > Now, lets see the inside of the chambers. Remove the bowls and internals. One > at a time please. Did you locate the wire sizes I posted ? > > --- On Mon, 12/15/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Monday, December 15, 2008, 7:57 AM > > Can you take a look at this picture and tell me if these are the idle > mixture screws? These are what I took off and they didn't break. In > fact, they came off very easy. They were a little gunky so I am > soaking them and recleaning everything again. I'd like to make sure I > get everything this time. > > This link has the picture. > > http://home.comcast.net/~hbrown159/carbquestions1.jpg > > Thanks, > Andrew > > On Dec 14, 4:19 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> However you > get them off, whatever works for you, etc. I remove the clamps > > from the spigots and stick a thin screwdriver under the rubber. Spray silicone > in and remove screwdriver. Pry bar is fine. I do remove all airbox mounting > bolts and pull back to give room. > > > Andrew; don't attempt to remove the limiter caps. Grind the protruding > > stops off. Then they can be removed without breakage. The stops only allow 270 > of movement, no stops gets you 360. Careful work with a mototool will do it in > minutes. > > > --- On Sun, 12/14/08, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > To: [email protected] > > Date: Sunday, December 14, 2008, 1:11 PM > > > Actually I'd like to know the secret to getting the carbs out of the > > intake manifolds. I've actually been using a modified allen wrench to remove > the manifolds from the engine and leaving them attached to the carbs. > > > > > > > -Kyle > > > On Sun, Dec 14, 2008 at 12:04 PM, Andrew <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > Hi Dennis and Kyle, thanks for the help. I am about to go out and try > > > your suggestions. The only part I have not gone through and blown/ > > > cleaned out are those low speed channels you talked about. I didn't > > > know you could (should) remove them. I'm hoping I can do it without > > > breaking them. I have cleaned out those jets in the bowls at least 4 > > > times. I used a couple of small pieces of copper wire that I > > > stripped. Must not have done a good enough job since it wasn't the > > > correct size. > > > Is there a recommended way to remove the carbs from the rubber > > > mounting holes? I use a 4 foot long pry bar to gently push them out > > > and back in after I loosen the clamps. > > > Maybe I'll take some pictures. Thanks Again, > > > Andrew > > > On Dec 14, 1:14 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > YOU have a lot of work ahead. First off, if the carbs were really > > clean you wouldn't be writing about this. On the plus side, you don't > seem to be adverse to the labor required. Remove the carb assembly once again. > Do not separate from the "runner" that keeps them together. Remove > float bowls and jets. The slow speed jets are most likely blocked. Whatever > rust > migrated through the system will be everywhere. Slowly clean all passages and > jets that fuel flows through. You'll need cleaning wires, pressurized carb > cleaner and compressed air. The idle mixture adjustment screws are the ones > that > have the caps on them. They should be removed and blown out given the nature > of > your problem (rust injestion) It is possible to remove the caps but most often > they will break off and leave you with an additional problem. I carefully > grind > the stop tabs off with a Dremel. Gaining access to the fuel circuit they > control > will allow you clean a vital area. When replacing> > the idle mix screws, > gently bottom out and back off about one turn > > as a starting point. The tabs prevented adjustment that would result in a rich > mixture and not comply with EPA. I recently posted the wire sizes required to > clean the jets of a 650 (#37 & #115). In the case of a rust problem like > yours, I route the fuel line to allow me to use an automotive fuel filter. > Find > a place for it. My choice of carb cleaner is Berkbile 2+2 (not sold everywhere > due to hazard) When working on carbs follow the instructions of med school; > First do no harm. I might add that you need to verify that the fuel flow from > the tank is adequate. I open the vacuum with a syringe and blow back into the > tank. Rust is among the worst nightmares to deal with. Repeated cleaning is > not > unknown. Always work on one carb at a time and do not switch slides. In fact I > don't remove them unless I suspect a defective diagphram. Before installing > carbs, support them in an upright > > > position > > > > and supply with fuel from an external tank source. Better to see if > > you have a leak now and not remove again. Observe the spray from the > accelerator > pump and insure it works. Good luck. > > > > --- On Sat, 12/13/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starting problems > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > <[email protected]> > > > > > > Date: Saturday, December 13, 2008, 6:17 PM > > > > Hi I have an 83 Nighthawk and I am having a problem getting it > > > started. > > > > Before I start describing the problem I thought I should mention that > > > it sat for 4 years without being run. > > > So when I got it, I took the tank to a local shop and had it acid > > > etched and coated. I also took the carbs off, cleaned them out and > > > put it all back together. It ran great for a week, then I let sit. > > > The next tiime I went to start it, I realized the petcock was clogged > > > and the shop missed a spot on the tank. I took it back and had it > > > recoated. > > > > I took the carbs back of, cleaned them real good and put a new fuel > > > filter on. Now I just can't seem to get it started. > > > > When I go to start it, I twist the throttle a couple of times, set > the > > > choke and crank. It fires for a second or two, then dies. Never > > > staying running. I can never give it any "throttle" to > keep it > > > running. > > > > A couple of things I was wondering: > > > 1. Should I be tightening the either the small jets or the needle > > > valves from the air diagphrams above hand tight with a screwdriver? > > > Or should I leave them a little loose? I wasn't sure if I am > cutting > > > off the fuel by tightening them. > > > 2. What are the small teardrop adjusting nobs under the carbs? > There > > > is one for each carb except the far left carb near the petcock. > > > > Any help is greatly appreciated. > > > > Andrew- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - > > > > carbquestions1.1.jpg > 67KViewDownload- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
