2 5/8 sounds a little "much" to me. At that setting they wouldn't be metering anything, just open. Try 1 1/2 to start. I really don't know the exact setting, I always count the turns in to seat before I remove them. put 'em back the same way. It might be in the Honda shop manual. For as much as I'm a "by the book" person, results count more. Glad you got it up and running. Learn anything ? Always better when you do. The odd mixture screw is from an older bike. If you broke off the caps (too easy to do) you would be left with a skinny post. As long as it has the same profile as the others. When I see stuff like that, a red flag goes up and I examine each part for more mods. Somebody else has been here before and I don't know what they where up to or how good they were.
--- On Tue, 12/16/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: From: Andrew <[email protected]> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> Date: Tuesday, December 16, 2008, 9:02 AM I got it running last night. I took everything out again, used some copper wire to clean out the jets and put it all back together. Fired up after a little starting fluid and now starts everytime. I read that 2 5/8 turns from bottomed out are the factory settings? When I first started it, I was getting a littel white smoke coming out the pipes. Is it running rich or just need to warm up? I wondered why the bottom screw in the picture didn't have a "nob". Thanks for all of your help. On Dec 15, 11:55 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > Yes they are. Looks like one isn't original (nearest) and the stops have been boogered on a couple of others. Great that you can remove and clean the passageways. It / they control idle mixture and up a bit past 1000RPM. If you spray into the hole it should discharge from three holes in the bore (throttle plate end). Each one is exposed at a different throttle opening. spray carb cleaner into the small openings in the bore (air cleaner side, one on each side) and look for liquid coming from the hole the slow speed jet was in and the the hole the mixture screw was in. Air enters where you sprayed into and picks up fuel at the jet tower where the slowspeed jet was and continues through to the bore. > Now, lets see the inside of the chambers. Remove the bowls and internals. One at a time please. Did you locate the wire sizes I posted ? > > --- On Mon, 12/15/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Monday, December 15, 2008, 7:57 AM > > Can you take a look at this picture and tell me if these are the idle > mixture screws? These are what I took off and they didn't break. In > fact, they came off very easy. They were a little gunky so I am > soaking them and recleaning everything again. I'd like to make sure I > get everything this time. > > This link has the picture. > > http://home.comcast.net/~hbrown159/carbquestions1.jpg > > Thanks, > Andrew > > On Dec 14, 4:19 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> However you get them off, whatever works for you, etc. I remove the clamps > > from the spigots and stick a thin screwdriver under the rubber. Spray silicone > in and remove screwdriver. Pry bar is fine. I do remove all airbox mounting > bolts and pull back to give room. > > > Andrew; don't attempt to remove the limiter caps. Grind the protruding > > stops off. Then they can be removed without breakage. The stops only allow 270 > of movement, no stops gets you 360. Careful work with a mototool will do it in > minutes. > > > --- On Sun, 12/14/08, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > To: [email protected] > > Date: Sunday, December 14, 2008, 1:11 PM > > > Actually I'd like to know the secret to getting the carbs out of the > > intake manifolds. I've actually been using a modified allen wrench to remove > the manifolds from the engine and leaving them attached to the carbs. > > > > > > > -Kyle > > > On Sun, Dec 14, 2008 at 12:04 PM, Andrew <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > Hi Dennis and Kyle, thanks for the help. I am about to go out and try > > > your suggestions. The only part I have not gone through and blown/ > > > cleaned out are those low speed channels you talked about. I didn't > > > know you could (should) remove them. I'm hoping I can do it without > > > breaking them. I have cleaned out those jets in the bowls at least 4 > > > times. I used a couple of small pieces of copper wire that I > > > stripped. Must not have done a good enough job since it wasn't the > > > correct size. > > > Is there a recommended way to remove the carbs from the rubber > > > mounting holes? I use a 4 foot long pry bar to gently push them out > > > and back in after I loosen the clamps. > > > Maybe I'll take some pictures. Thanks Again, > > > Andrew > > > On Dec 14, 1:14 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > YOU have a lot of work ahead. First off, if the carbs were really > > clean you wouldn't be writing about this. On the plus side, you don't > seem to be adverse to the labor required. Remove the carb assembly once again. > Do not separate from the "runner" that keeps them together. Remove > float bowls and jets. The slow speed jets are most likely blocked. Whatever rust > migrated through the system will be everywhere. Slowly clean all passages and > jets that fuel flows through. You'll need cleaning wires, pressurized carb > cleaner and compressed air. The idle mixture adjustment screws are the ones that > have the caps on them. They should be removed and blown out given the nature of > your problem (rust injestion) It is possible to remove the caps but most often > they will break off and leave you with an additional problem. I carefully grind > the stop tabs off with a Dremel. Gaining access to the fuel circuit they control > will allow you clean a vital area. When replacing> > the idle mix screws, gently bottom out and back off about one turn > > as a starting point. The tabs prevented adjustment that would result in a rich > mixture and not comply with EPA. I recently posted the wire sizes required to > clean the jets of a 650 (#37 & #115). In the case of a rust problem like > yours, I route the fuel line to allow me to use an automotive fuel filter. Find > a place for it. My choice of carb cleaner is Berkbile 2+2 (not sold everywhere > due to hazard) When working on carbs follow the instructions of med school; > First do no harm. I might add that you need to verify that the fuel flow from > the tank is adequate. I open the vacuum with a syringe and blow back into the > tank. Rust is among the worst nightmares to deal with. Repeated cleaning is not > unknown. Always work on one carb at a time and do not switch slides. In fact I > don't remove them unless I suspect a defective diagphram. Before installing > carbs, support them in an upright > > > position > > > > and supply with fuel from an external tank source. Better to see if > > you have a leak now and not remove again. Observe the spray from the accelerator > pump and insure it works. Good luck. > > > > --- On Sat, 12/13/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starting problems > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > <[email protected]> > > > > > > Date: Saturday, December 13, 2008, 6:17 PM > > > > Hi I have an 83 Nighthawk and I am having a problem getting it > > > started. > > > > Before I start describing the problem I thought I should mention that > > > it sat for 4 years without being run. > > > So when I got it, I took the tank to a local shop and had it acid > > > etched and coated. I also took the carbs off, cleaned them out and > > > put it all back together. It ran great for a week, then I let sit. > > > The next tiime I went to start it, I realized the petcock was clogged > > > and the shop missed a spot on the tank. I took it back and had it > > > recoated. > > > > I took the carbs back of, cleaned them real good and put a new fuel > > > filter on. Now I just can't seem to get it started. > > > > When I go to start it, I twist the throttle a couple of times, set > the > > > choke and crank. It fires for a second or two, then dies. Never > > > staying running. I can never give it any "throttle" to > keep it > > > running. > > > > A couple of things I was wondering: > > > 1. Should I be tightening the either the small jets or the needle > > > valves from the air diagphrams above hand tight with a screwdriver? > > > Or should I leave them a little loose? I wasn't sure if I am > cutting > > > off the fuel by tightening them. > > > 2. What are the small teardrop adjusting nobs under the carbs? > There > > > is one for each carb except the far left carb near the petcock. > > > > Any help is greatly appreciated. > > > > Andrew- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text - > > > > carbquestions1.1.jpg > 67KViewDownload- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
