Ok, I'll try turning them down. What would I expect to see if they were not metering anything. How would the bike react?
A friend of mine gave me this bike so I know he has rebuilt these carbs before. Thats probably when the one screw was replaced with a different one and I know that's why most of the rubber in the carb is in good shape. Thanks, Andrew On Dec 17, 12:33 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > 2 5/8 sounds a little "much" to me. At that setting they wouldn't be metering > anything, just open. Try 1 1/2 to start. I really don't know the exact > setting, I always count the turns in to seat before I remove them. put 'em > back the same way. It might be in the Honda shop manual. For as much as I'm a > "by the book" person, results count more. Glad you got it up and running. > Learn anything ? Always better when you do. > The odd mixture screw is from an older bike. If you broke off the caps (too > easy to do) you would be left with a skinny post. As long as it has the same > profile as the others. When I see stuff like that, a red flag goes up and I > examine each part for more mods. Somebody else has been here before and I > don't know what they where up to or how good they were. > > --- On Tue, 12/16/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Tuesday, December 16, 2008, 9:02 AM > > I got it running last night. I took everything out again, used some > copper wire to clean out the jets and put it all back together. Fired > up after a little starting fluid and now starts everytime. I read > that 2 5/8 turns from bottomed out are the factory settings? When I > first started it, I was getting a littel white smoke coming out the > pipes. Is it running rich or just need to warm up? > > I wondered why the bottom screw in the picture didn't have a > "nob". > Thanks for all of your help. > > On Dec 15, 11:55 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> Yes they > are. Looks like one isn't original (nearest) and the stops > > have been boogered on a couple of others. Great that you can remove and clean > the passageways. It / they control idle mixture and up a bit past 1000RPM. If > you spray into the hole it should discharge from three holes in the bore > (throttle plate end). Each one is exposed at a different throttle opening. > spray > carb cleaner into the small openings in the bore (air cleaner side, one on > each > side) and look for liquid coming from the hole the slow speed jet was in and > the > the hole the mixture screw was in. Air enters where you sprayed into and picks > up fuel at the jet tower where the slowspeed jet was and continues through to > the bore.> Now, lets see the inside of the chambers. Remove the bowls and > internals. > > One at a time please. Did you locate the wire sizes I posted ? > > > --- On Mon, 12/15/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > <[email protected]> > > > > > Date: Monday, December 15, 2008, 7:57 AM > > > Can you take a look at this picture and tell me if these are the idle > > mixture screws? These are what I took off and they didn't break. > In > > fact, they came off very easy. They were a little gunky so I am > > soaking them and recleaning everything again. I'd like to make sure > I > > get everything this time. > > > This link has the picture. > > >http://home.comcast.net/~hbrown159/carbquestions1.jpg > > > Thanks, > > Andrew > > > On Dec 14, 4:19 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> > > However you get them off, whatever works for you, etc. I remove the clamps > > > > > > > from the spigots and stick a thin screwdriver under the rubber. Spray > silicone > > in and remove screwdriver. Pry bar is fine. I do remove all airbox > mounting > > bolts and pull back to give room. > > > > Andrew; don't attempt to remove the limiter caps. Grind the > protruding > > > stops off. Then they can be removed without breakage. The stops only allow > 270 > > of movement, no stops gets you 360. Careful work with a mototool will do > it in > > minutes. > > > > --- On Sun, 12/14/08, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > > To: [email protected] > > > Date: Sunday, December 14, 2008, 1:11 PM > > > > Actually I'd like to know the secret to getting the carbs out of > the > > > intake manifolds. I've actually been using a modified allen wrench to > remove > > the manifolds from the engine and leaving them attached to the carbs. > > > > -Kyle > > > > On Sun, Dec 14, 2008 at 12:04 PM, Andrew > > <[email protected]> > > > > > wrote: > > > > Hi Dennis and Kyle, thanks for the help. I am about to go out and > try > > > > your suggestions. The only part I have not gone through and blown/ > > > > cleaned out are those low speed channels you talked about. I > didn't > > > > know you could (should) remove them. I'm hoping I can do it > without > > > > breaking them. I have cleaned out those jets in the bowls at least > 4 > > > > times. I used a couple of small pieces of copper wire that I > > > > stripped. Must not have done a good enough job since it wasn't > the > > > > correct size. > > > > Is there a recommended way to remove the carbs from the rubber > > > > mounting holes? I use a 4 foot long pry bar to gently push them > out > > > > and back in after I loosen the clamps. > > > > Maybe I'll take some pictures. Thanks Again, > > > > Andrew > > > > On Dec 14, 1:14 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > YOU have a lot of work ahead. First off, if the carbs were > really > > > clean you wouldn't be writing about this. On the plus side, you > don't > > seem to be adverse to the labor required. Remove the carb assembly once > again. > > Do not separate from the "runner" that keeps them together. > Remove > > float bowls and jets. The slow speed jets are most likely blocked. > Whatever rust > > migrated through the system will be everywhere. Slowly clean all passages > and > > jets that fuel flows through. You'll need cleaning wires, pressurized > carb > > cleaner and compressed air. The idle mixture adjustment screws are the > ones that > > have the caps on them. They should be removed and blown out given the > nature of > > your problem (rust injestion) It is possible to remove the caps but most > often > > they will break off and leave you with an additional problem. I carefully > grind > > the stop tabs off with a Dremel. Gaining access to the fuel circuit they > control > > will allow you clean a vital area. When replacing> > the idle mix > > screws, gently bottom out and back off about one turn > > > > > > > as a starting point. The tabs prevented adjustment that would result in a > rich > > mixture and not comply with EPA. I recently posted the wire sizes required > to > > clean the jets of a 650 (#37 & #115). In the case of a rust problem > like > > yours, I route the fuel line to allow me to use an automotive fuel filter. > Find > > a place for it. My choice of carb cleaner is Berkbile 2+2 (not sold > everywhere > > due to hazard) When working on carbs follow the instructions of med > school; > > First do no harm. I might add that you need to verify that the fuel flow > from > > the tank is adequate. I open the vacuum with a syringe and blow back into > the > > tank. Rust is among the worst nightmares to deal with. Repeated cleaning > is not > > unknown. Always work on one carb at a time and do not switch slides. In > fact I > > don't remove them unless I suspect a defective diagphram. Before > installing > > carbs, support them in an upright > > > > position > > > > > and supply with fuel from an external tank source. Better to > see if > > > you have a leak now and not remove again. Observe the spray from the > accelerator > > pump and insure it works. Good luck. > > > > > --- On Sat, 12/13/08, Andrew <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starting problems > > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > > <[email protected]> > > > > > Date: Saturday, December 13, 2008, 6:17 PM > > > > > Hi I have an 83 Nighthawk and I am having a problem getting it > > > > started. > > > > > Before I start describing the problem I thought I should mention > that > > > > it sat for 4 years without being run. > > > > So when I got it, I took the tank to a local shop and had it > acid > > > > etched and coated. I also took the carbs off, cleaned them out > and > > > > put it all back together. It ran great for a week, then I let > sit. > > > > The next tiime I went to start it, I realized the petcock was > clogged > > > > and the shop missed a spot on the tank. I took it back and had > it > > > > recoated. > > > > > I took the carbs back of, cleaned them real good and put a new > fuel > > > > filter on. Now I just can't seem to get it started. > > > > > When I go to start it, I twist the throttle a couple of times, > set > > the > > > > choke and crank. It fires for a second or two, then dies. > Never > > > > staying running. I can never give it any "throttle" > to > > keep it > > > > running. > > > > > A couple of things I was wondering: > > > > 1. Should I be tightening the either the small jets or the > needle > > > > valves from the air diagphrams above hand tight with a > screwdriver? > > > > Or should I leave them a little loose? I wasn't sure if I > am > > cutting > > > > off the fuel by tightening them. > > > > 2. What are the small teardrop adjusting nobs under the carbs? > > There > > > > is one for each carb except the far left carb near the petcock. > > > > > Any help is greatly appreciated. > > > > > Andrew- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text - > > > carbquestions1.1.jpg > > 67KViewDownload- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 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