I took a few pretty nice rides today and it was riding good. I am noticing that the charging system doesn't really charge the battery well. After a few times riding it , the battery is dead.
Do these have alternators like a car? On Dec 17, 7:51 am, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > Ok, I'll try turning them down. What would I expect to see if they > were not metering anything. How would the bike react? > > A friend of mine gave me this bike so I know he has rebuilt these > carbs before. Thats probably when the one screw was replaced with a > different one and I know that's why most of the rubber in the carb is > in good shape. > > Thanks, > Andrew > > On Dec 17, 12:33 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > 2 5/8 sounds a little "much" to me. At that setting they wouldn't be > > metering anything, just open. Try 1 1/2 to start. I really don't know the > > exact setting, I always count the turns in to seat before I remove them. > > put 'em back the same way. It might be in the Honda shop manual. For as > > much as I'm a "by the book" person, results count more. Glad you got it up > > and running. Learn anything ? Always better when you do. > > The odd mixture screw is from an older bike. If you broke off the caps (too > > easy to do) you would be left with a skinny post. As long as it has the > > same profile as the others. When I see stuff like that, a red flag goes up > > and I examine each part for more mods. Somebody else has been here before > > and I don't know what they where up to or how good they were. > > > --- On Tue, 12/16/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > > Date: Tuesday, December 16, 2008, 9:02 AM > > > I got it running last night. I took everything out again, used some > > copper wire to clean out the jets and put it all back together. Fired > > up after a little starting fluid and now starts everytime. I read > > that 2 5/8 turns from bottomed out are the factory settings? When I > > first started it, I was getting a littel white smoke coming out the > > pipes. Is it running rich or just need to warm up? > > > I wondered why the bottom screw in the picture didn't have a > > "nob". > > Thanks for all of your help. > > > On Dec 15, 11:55 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> Yes they > > are. Looks like one isn't original (nearest) and the stops > > > have been boogered on a couple of others. Great that you can remove and > > clean > > the passageways. It / they control idle mixture and up a bit past 1000RPM. > > If > > you spray into the hole it should discharge from three holes in the bore > > (throttle plate end). Each one is exposed at a different throttle opening. > > spray > > carb cleaner into the small openings in the bore (air cleaner side, one on > > each > > side) and look for liquid coming from the hole the slow speed jet was in > > and the > > the hole the mixture screw was in. Air enters where you sprayed into and > > picks > > up fuel at the jet tower where the slowspeed jet was and continues through > > to > > the bore.> Now, lets see the inside of the chambers. Remove the bowls and > > internals. > > > One at a time please. Did you locate the wire sizes I posted ? > > > > --- On Mon, 12/15/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > > <[email protected]> > > > > Date: Monday, December 15, 2008, 7:57 AM > > > > Can you take a look at this picture and tell me if these are the idle > > > mixture screws? These are what I took off and they didn't break. > > In > > > fact, they came off very easy. They were a little gunky so I am > > > soaking them and recleaning everything again. I'd like to make sure > > I > > > get everything this time. > > > > This link has the picture. > > > >http://home.comcast.net/~hbrown159/carbquestions1.jpg > > > > Thanks, > > > Andrew > > > > On Dec 14, 4:19 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> > > > However you get them off, whatever works for you, etc. I remove the clamps > > > > from the spigots and stick a thin screwdriver under the rubber. Spray > > silicone > > > in and remove screwdriver. Pry bar is fine. I do remove all airbox > > mounting > > > bolts and pull back to give room. > > > > > Andrew; don't attempt to remove the limiter caps. Grind the > > protruding > > > > stops off. Then they can be removed without breakage. The stops only allow > > 270 > > > of movement, no stops gets you 360. Careful work with a mototool will do > > it in > > > minutes. > > > > > --- On Sun, 12/14/08, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]> > > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > > > To: [email protected] > > > > Date: Sunday, December 14, 2008, 1:11 PM > > > > > Actually I'd like to know the secret to getting the carbs out of > > the > > > > intake manifolds. I've actually been using a modified allen wrench to > > remove > > > the manifolds from the engine and leaving them attached to the carbs. > > > > > -Kyle > > > > > On Sun, Dec 14, 2008 at 12:04 PM, Andrew > > > <[email protected]> > > > > wrote: > > > > > Hi Dennis and Kyle, thanks for the help. I am about to go out and > > try > > > > > your suggestions. The only part I have not gone through and blown/ > > > > > cleaned out are those low speed channels you talked about. I > > didn't > > > > > know you could (should) remove them. I'm hoping I can do it > > without > > > > > breaking them. I have cleaned out those jets in the bowls at least > > 4 > > > > > times. I used a couple of small pieces of copper wire that I > > > > > stripped. Must not have done a good enough job since it wasn't > > the > > > > > correct size. > > > > > Is there a recommended way to remove the carbs from the rubber > > > > > mounting holes? I use a 4 foot long pry bar to gently push them > > out > > > > > and back in after I loosen the clamps. > > > > > Maybe I'll take some pictures. Thanks Again, > > > > > Andrew > > > > > On Dec 14, 1:14 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > YOU have a lot of work ahead. First off, if the carbs were > > really > > > > clean you wouldn't be writing about this. On the plus side, you > > don't > > > seem to be adverse to the labor required. Remove the carb assembly once > > again. > > > Do not separate from the "runner" that keeps them together. > > Remove > > > float bowls and jets. The slow speed jets are most likely blocked. > > Whatever rust > > > migrated through the system will be everywhere. Slowly clean all passages > > and > > > jets that fuel flows through. You'll need cleaning wires, pressurized > > carb > > > cleaner and compressed air. The idle mixture adjustment screws are the > > ones that > > > have the caps on them. They should be removed and blown out given the > > nature of > > > your problem (rust injestion) It is possible to remove the caps but most > > often > > > they will break off and leave you with an additional problem. I carefully > > grind > > > the stop tabs off with a Dremel. Gaining access to the fuel circuit they > > control > > > will allow you clean a vital area. When replacing> > the idle mix > > > screws, gently bottom out and back off about one turn > > > > as a starting point. The tabs prevented adjustment that would result in a > > rich > > > mixture and not comply with EPA. I recently posted the wire sizes required > > to > > > clean the jets of a 650 (#37 & #115). In the case of a rust problem > > like > > > yours, I route the fuel line to allow me to use an automotive fuel filter. > > Find > > > a place for it. My choice of carb cleaner is Berkbile 2+2 (not sold > > everywhere > > > due to hazard) When working on carbs follow the instructions of med > > school; > > > First do no harm. I might add that you need to verify that the fuel flow > > from > > > the tank is adequate. I open the vacuum with a syringe and blow back into > > the > > > tank. Rust is among the worst nightmares to deal with. Repeated cleaning > > is not > > > unknown. Always work on one carb at a time and do not switch slides. In > > fact I > > > don't remove them unless I suspect a defective diagphram. Before > > installing > > > carbs, support them in an upright > > > > > position > > > > > > and supply with fuel from an external tank source. Better to > > see if > > > > you have a leak now and not remove again. Observe the spray from the > > accelerator > > > pump and insure it works. Good luck. > > > > > > --- On Sat, 12/13/08, Andrew <[email protected]> > > wrote: > > > > > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > > > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starting problems > > > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > > > <[email protected]> > > > > > > Date: Saturday, December 13, 2008, 6:17 PM > > > > > > Hi I have an 83 Nighthawk and I am having a problem getting it > > > > > started. > > > > > > Before I start describing the problem I thought I should mention > > that > > > > > it sat for 4 years without being run. > > > > > So when I got it, I took the tank to a local shop and had it > > acid > > > > > etched and coated. I also took the carbs off, cleaned them out > > and > > > > > put it all back together. It ran great for a week, then I let > > sit. > > > > > The next tiime I went to start it, I realized the petcock was > > clogged > > > > > and the shop missed a spot on the tank. I took it back and had > > it > > > > > recoated. > > > > > > I took the carbs back of, cleaned them real good and put a new > > fuel > > > > > filter on. Now I just can't seem to get it started. > > > > > > When I go to start it, I twist the throttle a couple of times, > > set > > > the > > > > > choke and crank. It fires for a second or two, then dies. > > Never > > > > > staying running. I can never give it any "throttle" > > to > > > keep it > > > > > running. > > > > > > A couple of things I was wondering: > > > > > 1. Should I be tightening the either the small jets or the > > needle > > > > > valves from the air diagphrams above hand tight with a > > screwdriver? > > > > > Or should I leave them a > > ... > > read more »- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
