That's a good question and I'll try to answer it without too much confusion. If you can get the bike to idle at less than 1000RPM, An exhaust gas analyzer would make this job easy, If they are out too far there will be an acid odor at the pipes and maybe some dark smoke. If the idle increases as you slowly turn one in, you're on the right track. As you get it too lean, it will stumble and drop that cylinder. We want it to run smoothly and respond well from idle. The factory setting (whatever) is a bit too lean for my liking but the bike was emission controlled. Another indication of too lean would be a cracking and popping when closing the throttle from a high speed. I run mine a bit rich and I can smell it. Faint, but it's there. A simple rule is to adjust each for highest idle speed (turn the main idle control down if it climbs above 1000, I go as low as I can keep the motor running) Once you make it happy, turn each one out 1/8~1/4 more. The trick is to make it idle very slowly so the ONLY source of fuel is that circuit. Then the adjustments will be most noticeable. A carb sync helps this since out-of-sync carbs won't allow a slow speed idle. Below a certain point it tries to idle on less than four and stops. With some delicate carb work, my friends V-Max will idle at 400 ! Carb work is not a black art. It requires a working knowledge and being VERY detail oriented.
--- On Wed, 12/17/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: From: Andrew <[email protected]> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> Date: Wednesday, December 17, 2008, 7:51 AM Ok, I'll try turning them down. What would I expect to see if they were not metering anything. How would the bike react? A friend of mine gave me this bike so I know he has rebuilt these carbs before. Thats probably when the one screw was replaced with a different one and I know that's why most of the rubber in the carb is in good shape. Thanks, Andrew On Dec 17, 12:33 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > 2 5/8 sounds a little "much" to me. At that setting they wouldn't be metering anything, just open. Try 1 1/2 to start. I really don't know the exact setting, I always count the turns in to seat before I remove them. put 'em back the same way. It might be in the Honda shop manual. For as much as I'm a "by the book" person, results count more. Glad you got it up and running. Learn anything ? Always better when you do. > The odd mixture screw is from an older bike. If you broke off the caps (too easy to do) you would be left with a skinny post. As long as it has the same profile as the others. When I see stuff like that, a red flag goes up and I examine each part for more mods. Somebody else has been here before and I don't know what they where up to or how good they were. > > --- On Tue, 12/16/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Tuesday, December 16, 2008, 9:02 AM > > I got it running last night. I took everything out again, used some > copper wire to clean out the jets and put it all back together. Fired > up after a little starting fluid and now starts everytime. I read > that 2 5/8 turns from bottomed out are the factory settings? When I > first started it, I was getting a littel white smoke coming out the > pipes. Is it running rich or just need to warm up? > > I wondered why the bottom screw in the picture didn't have a > "nob". > Thanks for all of your help. > > On Dec 15, 11:55 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> Yes they are. Looks like one isn't original (nearest) and the stops > > have been boogered on a couple of others. Great that you can remove and clean > the passageways. It / they control idle mixture and up a bit past 1000RPM. If > you spray into the hole it should discharge from three holes in the bore > (throttle plate end). Each one is exposed at a different throttle opening. spray > carb cleaner into the small openings in the bore (air cleaner side, one on each > side) and look for liquid coming from the hole the slow speed jet was in and the > the hole the mixture screw was in. Air enters where you sprayed into and picks > up fuel at the jet tower where the slowspeed jet was and continues through to > the bore.> Now, lets see the inside of the chambers. Remove the bowls and internals. > > One at a time please. Did you locate the wire sizes I posted ? > > > --- On Mon, 12/15/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > <[email protected]> > > > > > Date: Monday, December 15, 2008, 7:57 AM > > > Can you take a look at this picture and tell me if these are the idle > > mixture screws? These are what I took off and they didn't break. > In > > fact, they came off very easy. They were a little gunky so I am > > soaking them and recleaning everything again. I'd like to make sure > I > > get everything this time. > > > This link has the picture. > > >http://home.comcast.net/~hbrown159/carbquestions1.jpg > > > Thanks, > > Andrew > > > On Dec 14, 4:19 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> > > However you get them off, whatever works for you, etc. I remove the clamps > > > > > > > from the spigots and stick a thin screwdriver under the rubber. Spray > silicone > > in and remove screwdriver. Pry bar is fine. I do remove all airbox > mounting > > bolts and pull back to give room. > > > > Andrew; don't attempt to remove the limiter caps. Grind the > protruding > > > stops off. Then they can be removed without breakage. The stops only allow > 270 > > of movement, no stops gets you 360. Careful work with a mototool will do > it in > > minutes. > > > > --- On Sun, 12/14/08, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > > To: [email protected] > > > Date: Sunday, December 14, 2008, 1:11 PM > > > > Actually I'd like to know the secret to getting the carbs out of > the > > > intake manifolds. I've actually been using a modified allen wrench to > remove > > the manifolds from the engine and leaving them attached to the carbs. > > > > -Kyle > > > > On Sun, Dec 14, 2008 at 12:04 PM, Andrew > > <[email protected]> > > > > > wrote: > > > > Hi Dennis and Kyle, thanks for the help. I am about to go out and > try > > > > your suggestions. The only part I have not gone through and blown/ > > > > cleaned out are those low speed channels you talked about. I > didn't > > > > know you could (should) remove them. I'm hoping I can do it > without > > > > breaking them. I have cleaned out those jets in the bowls at least > 4 > > > > times. I used a couple of small pieces of copper wire that I > > > > stripped. Must not have done a good enough job since it wasn't > the > > > > correct size. > > > > Is there a recommended way to remove the carbs from the rubber > > > > mounting holes? I use a 4 foot long pry bar to gently push them > out > > > > and back in after I loosen the clamps. > > > > Maybe I'll take some pictures. Thanks Again, > > > > Andrew > > > > On Dec 14, 1:14 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > YOU have a lot of work ahead. First off, if the carbs were > really > > > clean you wouldn't be writing about this. On the plus side, you > don't > > seem to be adverse to the labor required. Remove the carb assembly once > again. > > Do not separate from the "runner" that keeps them together. > Remove > > float bowls and jets. The slow speed jets are most likely blocked. > Whatever rust > > migrated through the system will be everywhere. Slowly clean all passages > and > > jets that fuel flows through. You'll need cleaning wires, pressurized > carb > > cleaner and compressed air. The idle mixture adjustment screws are the > ones that > > have the caps on them. They should be removed and blown out given the > nature of > > your problem (rust injestion) It is possible to remove the caps but most > often > > they will break off and leave you with an additional problem. I carefully > grind > > the stop tabs off with a Dremel. Gaining access to the fuel circuit they > control > > will allow you clean a vital area. When replacing> > the idle mix > > screws, gently bottom out and back off about one turn > > > > > > > as a starting point. The tabs prevented adjustment that would result in a > rich > > mixture and not comply with EPA. I recently posted the wire sizes required > to > > clean the jets of a 650 (#37 & #115). In the case of a rust problem > like > > yours, I route the fuel line to allow me to use an automotive fuel filter. > Find > > a place for it. My choice of carb cleaner is Berkbile 2+2 (not sold > everywhere > > due to hazard) When working on carbs follow the instructions of med > school; > > First do no harm. I might add that you need to verify that the fuel flow > from > > the tank is adequate. I open the vacuum with a syringe and blow back into > the > > tank. Rust is among the worst nightmares to deal with. Repeated cleaning > is not > > unknown. Always work on one carb at a time and do not switch slides. In > fact I > > don't remove them unless I suspect a defective diagphram. Before > installing > > carbs, support them in an upright > > > > position > > > > > and supply with fuel from an external tank source. Better to > see if > > > you have a leak now and not remove again. Observe the spray from the > accelerator > > pump and insure it works. Good luck. > > > > > --- On Sat, 12/13/08, Andrew <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starting problems > > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > > <[email protected]> > > > > > Date: Saturday, December 13, 2008, 6:17 PM > > > > > Hi I have an 83 Nighthawk and I am having a problem getting it > > > > started. > > > > > Before I start describing the problem I thought I should mention > that > > > > it sat for 4 years without being run. > > > > So when I got it, I took the tank to a local shop and had it > acid > > > > etched and coated. I also took the carbs off, cleaned them out > and > > > > put it all back together. It ran great for a week, then I let > sit. > > > > The next tiime I went to start it, I realized the petcock was > clogged > > > > and the shop missed a spot on the tank. I took it back and had > it > > > > recoated. > > > > > I took the carbs back of, cleaned them real good and put a new > fuel > > > > filter on. Now I just can't seem to get it started. > > > > > When I go to start it, I twist the throttle a couple of times, > set > > the > > > > choke and crank. It fires for a second or two, then dies. > Never > > > > staying running. I can never give it any "throttle" > to > > keep it > > > > running. > > > > > A couple of things I was wondering: > > > > 1. Should I be tightening the either the small jets or the > needle > > > > valves from the air diagphrams above hand tight with a > screwdriver? > > > > Or should I leave them a little loose? I wasn't sure if I > am > > cutting > > > > off the fuel by tightening them. > > > > 2. What are the small teardrop adjusting nobs under the carbs? > > There > > > > is one for each carb except the far left carb near the petcock. > > > > > Any help is greatly appreciated. > > > > > Andrew- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text - > > > carbquestions1.1.jpg > > 67KViewDownload- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 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