Hey Kyle...do you have the right amperage battery on your bike? (I always start
with the little things first.) Too low an amperage would cause your battery to
go dead. HotrodMamma....
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Hasslinger
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 11:42 AM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems
Taking a risk! Would changing the pullys/gears on the Alternator so it
would turn faster at lower engine rpm do anyting? I can't imagine that it
would consume more power than the engine can safely and easily deliver but...
And Yes I do realize that it would take more power to drive the alternator but
is that really the issue. Couldn't this approach be used to lower the rpm
requirement to under 2000 rpm? just asking. If the archives cover this you
can send me there.:-) or where ever you like as long as it's with MYOIL and
not YOUROIL.
Back to being serious, I can't believe that stock off the shelf devices
aren't available with the pleathora of stuff I glance at every day while design
the mechanical contraptions I design.
--- On Thu, 12/18/08, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
From: Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]>
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems
To: [email protected]
Date: Thursday, December 18, 2008, 12:24 AM
Thanks Kyle, I don't want to go there again. I've given my last
words on that subject. Let him read what has gone down already. Maybe somebody
has figured out how to mount a police car alternator to one of those. That
might end it.
--- On Wed, 12/17/08, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems
To: [email protected]
Date: Wednesday, December 17, 2008, 8:15 PM
Oh man, that discussion is almost as much fun as the "which
oil is best" discussion. It's all in the archives, short answer is they don't
charge unless you keep the RPMs above 2.5-3K. The long answer involves
differences of opinions and electrical theories that were mostly over my head ;)
-Kyle
On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 7:07 PM, Andrew
<[email protected]> wrote:
I took a few pretty nice rides today and it was riding
good. I am
noticing that the charging system doesn't really charge the
battery
well.
After a few times riding it , the battery is dead.
Do these have alternators like a car?
On Dec 17, 7:51 am, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ok, I'll try turning them down. What would I expect to
see if they
> were not metering anything. How would the bike react?
>
> A friend of mine gave me this bike so I know he has
rebuilt these
> carbs before. Thats probably when the one screw was
replaced with a
> different one and I know that's why most of the rubber in
the carb is
> in good shape.
>
> Thanks,
> Andrew
>
> On Dec 17, 12:33 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>
>
> > 2 5/8 sounds a little "much" to me. At that setting
they wouldn't be metering anything, just open. Try 1 1/2 to start. I really
don't know the exact setting, I always count the turns in to seat before I
remove them. put 'em back the same way. It might be in the Honda shop manual.
For as much as I'm a "by the book" person, results count more. Glad you got it
up and running. Learn anything ? Always better when you do.
> > The odd mixture screw is from an older bike. If you
broke off the caps (too easy to do) you would be left with a skinny post. As
long as it has the same profile as the others. When I see stuff like that, a
red flag goes up and I examine each part for more mods. Somebody else has been
here before and I don't know what they where up to or how good they were.
>
> > --- On Tue, 12/16/08, Andrew <[email protected]>
wrote:
> > From: Andrew <[email protected]>
> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems
> > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
<[email protected]>
> > Date: Tuesday, December 16, 2008, 9:02 AM
>
> > I got it running last night. I took everything out
again, used some
> > copper wire to clean out the jets and put it all back
together. Fired
> > up after a little starting fluid and now starts
everytime. I read
> > that 2 5/8 turns from bottomed out are the factory
settings? When I
> > first started it, I was getting a littel white smoke
coming out the
> > pipes. Is it running rich or just need to warm up?
>
> > I wondered why the bottom screw in the picture didn't
have a
> > "nob".
> > Thanks for all of your help.
>
> > On Dec 15, 11:55 pm, Dennis Hammerl
<[email protected]> wrote:> Yes they are. Looks like one isn't original
(nearest) and the stops
>
> > have been boogered on a couple of others. Great that
you can remove and clean
> > the passageways. It / they control idle mixture and up
a bit past 1000RPM. If
> > you spray into the hole it should discharge from three
holes in the bore
> > (throttle plate end). Each one is exposed at a
different throttle opening. spray
> > carb cleaner into the small openings in the bore (air
cleaner side, one on each
> > side) and look for liquid coming from the hole the slow
speed jet was in and the
> > the hole the mixture screw was in. Air enters where you
sprayed into and picks
> > up fuel at the jet tower where the slowspeed jet was
and continues through to
> > the bore.> Now, lets see the inside of the chambers.
Remove the bowls and internals.
>
> > One at a time please. Did you locate the wire sizes I
posted ?
>
> > > --- On Mon, 12/15/08, Andrew <[email protected]>
wrote:
> > > From: Andrew <[email protected]>
> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems
> > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
>
> > <[email protected]>
>
> > > Date: Monday, December 15, 2008, 7:57 AM
>
> > > Can you take a look at this picture and tell me if
these are the idle
> > > mixture screws? These are what I took off and they
didn't break.
> > In
> > > fact, they came off very easy. They were a little
gunky so I am
> > > soaking them and recleaning everything again. I'd
like to make sure
> > I
> > > get everything this time.
>
> > > This link has the picture.
>
> > >http://home.comcast.net/~hbrown159/carbquestions1.jpg
>
> > > Thanks,
> > > Andrew
>
> > > On Dec 14, 4:19 pm, Dennis Hammerl
<[email protected]> wrote:>
>
> > However you get them off, whatever works for you, etc.
I remove the clamps
>
> > > from the spigots and stick a thin screwdriver under
the rubber. Spray
> > silicone
> > > in and remove screwdriver. Pry bar is fine. I do
remove all airbox
> > mounting
> > > bolts and pull back to give room.
>
> > > > Andrew; don't attempt to remove the limiter caps.
Grind the
> > protruding
>
> > > stops off. Then they can be removed without breakage.
The stops only allow
> > 270
> > > of movement, no stops gets you 360. Careful work with
a mototool will do
> > it in
> > > minutes.
>
> > > > --- On Sun, 12/14/08, Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
wrote:
> > > > From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]>
> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems
> > > > To: [email protected]
> > > > Date: Sunday, December 14, 2008, 1:11 PM
>
> > > > Actually I'd like to know the secret to getting the
carbs out of
> > the
>
> > > intake manifolds. I've actually been using a modified
allen wrench to
> > remove
> > > the manifolds from the engine and leaving them
attached to the carbs.
>
> > > > -Kyle
>
> > > > On Sun, Dec 14, 2008 at 12:04 PM, Andrew
>
> > <[email protected]>
>
> > > wrote:
>
> > > > Hi Dennis and Kyle, thanks for the help. I am
about to go out and
> > try
>
> > > > your suggestions. The only part I have not gone
through and blown/
>
> > > > cleaned out are those low speed channels you talked
about. I
> > didn't
>
> > > > know you could (should) remove them. I'm hoping I
can do it
> > without
>
> > > > breaking them. I have cleaned out those jets in
the bowls at least
> > 4
>
> > > > times. I used a couple of small pieces of copper
wire that I
>
> > > > stripped. Must not have done a good enough job
since it wasn't
> > the
>
> > > > correct size.
>
> > > > Is there a recommended way to remove the carbs from
the rubber
>
> > > > mounting holes? I use a 4 foot long pry bar to
gently push them
> > out
>
> > > > and back in after I loosen the clamps.
>
> > > > Maybe I'll take some pictures. Thanks Again,
>
> > > > Andrew
>
> > > > On Dec 14, 1:14 am, Dennis Hammerl
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > > > YOU have a lot of work ahead. First off, if the
carbs were
> > really
>
> > > clean you wouldn't be writing about this. On the plus
side, you
> > don't
> > > seem to be adverse to the labor required. Remove the
carb assembly once
> > again.
> > > Do not separate from the "runner" that keeps them
together.
> > Remove
> > > float bowls and jets. The slow speed jets are most
likely blocked.
> > Whatever rust
> > > migrated through the system will be everywhere.
Slowly clean all passages
> > and
> > > jets that fuel flows through. You'll need cleaning
wires, pressurized
> > carb
> > > cleaner and compressed air. The idle mixture
adjustment screws are the
> > ones that
> > > have the caps on them. They should be removed and
blown out given the
> > nature of
> > > your problem (rust injestion) It is possible to
remove the caps but most
> > often
> > > they will break off and leave you with an additional
problem. I carefully
> > grind
> > > the stop tabs off with a Dremel. Gaining access to
the fuel circuit they
> > control
> > > will allow you clean a vital area. When replacing> >
the idle mix
>
> > screws, gently bottom out and back off about one turn
>
> > > as a starting point. The tabs prevented adjustment
that would result in a
> > rich
> > > mixture and not comply with EPA. I recently posted
the wire sizes required
> > to
> > > clean the jets of a 650 (#37 & #115). In the case of
a rust problem
> > like
> > > yours, I route the fuel line to allow me to use an
automotive fuel filter.
> > Find
> > > a place for it. My choice of carb cleaner is Berkbile
2+2 (not sold
> > everywhere
> > > due to hazard) When working on carbs follow the
instructions of med
> > school;
> > > First do no harm. I might add that you need to verify
that the fuel flow
> > from
> > > the tank is adequate. I open the vacuum with a
syringe and blow back into
> > the
> > > tank. Rust is among the worst nightmares to deal
with. Repeated cleaning
> > is not
> > > unknown. Always work on one carb at a time and do not
switch slides. In
> > fact I
> > > don't remove them unless I suspect a defective
diagphram. Before
> > installing
> > > carbs, support them in an upright
>
> > > > position
>
> > > > > and supply with fuel from an external tank
source. Better to
> > see if
>
> > > you have a leak now and not remove again. Observe the
spray from the
> > accelerator
> > > pump and insure it works. Good luck.
>
> > > > > --- On Sat, 12/13/08, Andrew
<[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> > > > > From: Andrew <[email protected]>
> > > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Starting problems
> > > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
>
> > > <[email protected]>
>
> > > > > Date: Saturday, December 13, 2008, 6:17 PM
>
> > > > > Hi I have an 83 Nighthawk and I am having a
problem getting it
> > > > > started.
>
> > > > > Before I start describing the problem I thought I
should mention
> > that
> > > > > it sat for 4 years without being run.
> > > > > So when I got it, I took the tank to a local shop
and had it
> > acid
> > > > > etched and coated. I also took the carbs off,
cleaned them out
> > and
> > > > > put it all back together. It ran great for a
week, then I let
> > sit.
> > > > > The next tiime I went to start it, I realized the
petcock was
> > clogged
> > > > > and the shop missed a spot on the tank. I took
it back and had
> > it
> > > > > recoated.
>
> > > > > I took the carbs back of, cleaned them real good
and put a new
> > fuel
> > > > > filter on. Now I just can't seem to get it
started.
>
> > > > > When I go to start it, I twist the throttle a
couple of times,
> > set
> > > the
> > > > > choke and crank. It fires for a second or two,
then dies.
> > Never
> > > > > staying running. I can never give it any
"throttle"
> > to
> > > keep it
> > > > > running.
>
> > > > > A couple of things I was wondering:
> > > > > 1. Should I be tightening the either the small
jets or the
> > needle
> > > > > valves from the air diagphrams above hand tight
with a
> > screwdriver?
> > > > > Or should I leave them a
>
> ...
>
> read more ยป- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
--~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
To post to this group, send email to [email protected]
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
[email protected]
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en
-~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
