Thanks, I'll try those suggestions. Since it's running, and actually pretty decent right now my current focus is going to need to be with the charging system. I had a ride planned with a friend of mine for yesterday. We started off, rode down the street to a gas station and filled up. I had recently had the bike on the charger.
I left the bike running but after I filled it up, I stalled it. Wouldn't start again until I jumped it. I got it home and jumped it.. I put a volt-meter on the terminals where the battery terminals bolt to ( I think its the starter solenoid). The volt-meter read, while it was running .. 11.5 volts. Does that mean the stator is bad? On Dec 18, 1:19 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > That's a good question and I'll try to answer it without too much confusion. > If you can get the bike to idle at less than 1000RPM, An exhaust gas analyzer > would make this job easy, If they are out too far there will be an acid odor > at the pipes and maybe some dark smoke. If the idle increases as you slowly > turn one in, you're on the right track. As you get it too lean, it will > stumble and drop that cylinder. We want it to run smoothly and respond well > from idle. The factory setting (whatever) is a bit too lean for my liking but > the bike was emission controlled. Another indication of too lean would be a > cracking and popping when closing the throttle from a high speed. I run mine > a bit rich and I can smell it. Faint, but it's there. A simple rule is to > adjust each for highest idle speed (turn the main idle control down if it > climbs above 1000, I go as low as I can keep the motor running) Once you make > it happy, turn each one out 1/8~1/4 more. The trick is > to make it idle very slowly so the ONLY source of fuel is that circuit. Then > the adjustments will be most noticeable. A carb sync helps this since > out-of-sync carbs won't allow a slow speed idle. Below a certain point it > tries to idle on less than four and stops. With some delicate carb work, my > friends V-Max will idle at 400 ! > Carb work is not a black art. It requires a working knowledge and being VERY > detail oriented. > > --- On Wed, 12/17/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Wednesday, December 17, 2008, 7:51 AM > > Ok, I'll try turning them down. What would I expect to see if they > were not metering anything. How would the bike react? > > A friend of mine gave me this bike so I know he has rebuilt these > carbs before. Thats probably when the one screw was replaced with a > different one and I know that's why most of the rubber in the carb is > in good shape. > > Thanks, > Andrew > > On Dec 17, 12:33 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> 2 5/8 sounds > a little "much" to me. At that setting they > > wouldn't be metering anything, just open. Try 1 1/2 to start. I really > don't know the exact setting, I always count the turns in to seat before I > remove them. put 'em back the same way. It might be in the Honda shop > manual. For as much as I'm a "by the book" person, results count > more. Glad you got it up and running. Learn anything ? Always better when you > do.> The odd mixture screw is from an older bike. If you broke off the caps > > (too easy to do) you would be left with a skinny post. As long as it has the > same profile as the others. When I see stuff like that, a red flag goes up > and I > examine each part for more mods. Somebody else has been here before and I > don't know what they where up to or how good they were. > > > --- On Tue, 12/16/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > <[email protected]>> Date: Tuesday, December 16, 2008, 9:02 AM > > > I got it running last night. I took everything out again, used some > > copper wire to clean out the jets and put it all back together. Fired > > up after a little starting fluid and now starts everytime. I read > > that 2 5/8 turns from bottomed out are the factory settings? When I > > first started it, I was getting a littel white smoke coming out the > > pipes. Is it running rich or just need to warm up? > > > I wondered why the bottom screw in the picture didn't have a > > "nob". > > Thanks for all of your help. > > > On Dec 15, 11:55 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:> > > Yes they are. Looks like one isn't original (nearest) and the stops > > > > > > > have been boogered on a couple of others. Great that you can remove and > clean > > the passageways. It / they control idle mixture and up a bit past 1000RPM. > If > > you spray into the hole it should discharge from three holes in the bore > > (throttle plate end). Each one is exposed at a different throttle opening. > spray > > carb cleaner into the small openings in the bore (air cleaner side, one on > each > > side) and look for liquid coming from the hole the slow speed jet was in > and the > > the hole the mixture screw was in. Air enters where you sprayed into and > picks > > up fuel at the jet tower where the slowspeed jet was and continues through > to > > the bore.> Now, lets see the inside of the chambers. Remove the bowls > and internals. > > > One at a time please. Did you locate the wire sizes I posted ? > > > > --- On Mon, 12/15/08, Andrew <[email protected]> wrote: > > > From: Andrew <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > > > <[email protected]> > > > > Date: Monday, December 15, 2008, 7:57 AM > > > > Can you take a look at this picture and tell me if these are the idle > > > mixture screws? These are what I took off and they didn't > break. > > In > > > fact, they came off very easy. They were a little gunky so I am > > > soaking them and recleaning everything again. I'd like to make > sure > > I > > > get everything this time. > > > > This link has the picture. > > > >http://home.comcast.net/~hbrown159/carbquestions1.jpg > > > > Thanks, > > > Andrew > > > > On Dec 14, 4:19 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> > wrote:> > > > However you get them off, whatever works for you, etc. I remove the clamps > > > > from the spigots and stick a thin screwdriver under the rubber. Spray > > silicone > > > in and remove screwdriver. Pry bar is fine. I do remove all airbox > > mounting > > > bolts and pull back to give room. > > > > > Andrew; don't attempt to remove the limiter caps. Grind the > > protruding > > > > stops off. Then they can be removed without breakage. The stops only > allow > > 270 > > > of movement, no stops gets you 360. Careful work with a mototool will > do > > it in > > > minutes. > > > > > --- On Sun, 12/14/08, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > From: Kyle Munz <[email protected]> > > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Starting problems > > > > To: [email protected] > > > > Date: Sunday, December 14, 2008, 1:11 PM > > > > > Actually I'd like to know the secret to getting the carbs > out of > > the > > > > intake manifolds. I've actually been using a modified allen > wrench to > > remove > > > the manifolds from the engine and leaving them attached to the carbs. > > > > > -Kyle > > > > > On Sun, Dec 14, 2008 at 12:04 PM, Andrew > > > <[email protected]> > > > > wrote: > > > > > Hi Dennis and Kyle, thanks for the help. I am about to go out > and > > try > > > > > your suggestions. The only part I have not gone through and > blown/ > > > > > cleaned out are those low speed channels you talked about. I > > didn't > > > > > know you could (should) remove them. I'm hoping I can do > it > > without > > > > > breaking them. I have cleaned out those jets in the bowls at > least > > 4 > > > > > times. I used a couple of small pieces of copper wire that I > > > > > stripped. Must not have done a good enough job since it > wasn't > > the > > > > > correct size. > > > > > Is there a recommended way to remove the carbs from the rubber > > > > > mounting holes? I use a 4 foot long pry bar to gently push > them > > out > > > > > and back in after I loosen the clamps. > > > > > Maybe I'll take some pictures. Thanks Again, > > > > > Andrew > > > > > On Dec 14, 1:14 am, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> > wrote: > > > > > > YOU have a lot of work ahead. First off, if the carbs were > > really > > > > clean you wouldn't be writing about this. On the plus side, you > > don't > > > seem to be adverse to the labor required. Remove the carb assembly > once > > again. > > > Do not separate from the "runner" that keeps them together. > > Remove > > > float bowls and jets. The slow speed jets are most likely blocked. > > Whatever rust > > > migrated through the system will be everywhere. Slowly clean all > passages > > and > > > jets that fuel flows through. You'll need cleaning wires, > pressurized > > carb > > > cleaner and compressed air. The idle mixture adjustment screws are > the > > ones that > > > have the caps on them. They should be removed and blown out given the > > nature of > > > your problem (rust injestion) It is possible to remove the caps but > most > > often > > > they will break off and leave you with an additional problem. I > carefully > > grind > > > the stop tabs off with a Dremel. Gaining access to the fuel circuit > they > > control > > > will allow you clean a vital area. When replacing> > the idle > mix > > > screws, gently bottom out and back off about one turn > > > > as a starting point. The tabs prevented adjustment that would result > in a > > rich > > > mixture and not comply with EPA. I recently posted the wire sizes > required > > to > > > clean the jets of a 650 (#37 & #115). In the case of a rust > problem > > like > > > yours, I route the fuel line to allow me to use an automotive fuel > filter. > > Find > > > a place for it. My choice of carb cleaner is Berkbile 2+2 (not sold > > everywhere > > > due to hazard) When working on carbs follow the instructions of med > > school; > > > First do no harm. I might add that you need to verify that the fuel > flow > > from > > > the tank is adequate. I open the vacuum with a syringe and blow back > into > > the > > > tank. Rust is among the worst nightmares to deal with. Repeated > cleaning > > is not > > > unknown. Always work on one carb at a time and do not switch slides. > In > > fact I > > > don't remove them unless I suspect a defective diagphram. Before > > installing > > > carbs, support them in an upright > > > > > position > > > > > > and supply with fuel from an external tank source. Better > to > > see if > > > > you have a leak now and not remove > > ... > > read more »- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
