Been looking on eBay for some gaskets. Haven't ordered one yet but
will when I've got enough information to tear the cylinder head cover
off.

I kinda look forward to this stuff as long as it doesn't keep the bike
laid up for too long.

I'm a retired machine repairman and guess I miss, just a little bit,
the hydraulic mist, slipped wrenches and dropped washers in dark
places. :)

On Mar 13, 8:53 pm, "Creative Residential Designs"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Before you go though all of that hassle you'd best price out that cam cover
> gasket, try and find at least a 1/2 dozen replacement bolts and figure a few
> days to get it all back together. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
> HotrodMamma.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "tharrisn" <[email protected]>
> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Friday, March 13, 2009 6:16 PM
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 650 engine noise
>
> According the the previous owner the engine was never opened before
> but based on some scratches on the frame I do wonder.
>
> If air gets in a hydraulic tappet will it work its way out eventually?
> I suspect not based on the cross section of a tappet displayed in the
> shop manual. But, if there was air in a tappet wouldn't it collapse
> each time the valve opens/closes which means the tappet would always
> be noisy. In my bike's case the tappets do quiet down eventually.
>
> Is it possible to check these things visually, i.e. can I "rock" a
> rocker arm and assume any that are loose have a bad/leaking tappet
> under them. I would assume all of them should be tight against the
> valve stem when the valve is closed and the cam lobe is at the
> shortest radius to rocker distance. In other words when the valve
> train is in it's most relaxed state for that valve. Even if I found a
> couple bad ones with some sort of visual inspection I'd probably take
> 'em all out and clean and bleed 'em if that's prudent.
>
> On Mar 13, 3:51 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> > Perhaps the hydraulic tappets have been disassembled in an engine opening
> > and not carefully bleeded before reassembling. If any air bubble gets into
> > one of them, you surely get trouble.
>
> > At 09:33 13/03/2009 -0700, you wrote:
>
> > >Ok, I'm with you on your explanation. I too think there is dirt or
> > >some other substance interfering with the hydraulic system related to
> > >the zero clearance adjusters. Maybe in a oil delivery passageway or
> > >probably more likely in the tiny hydraulic valve adjusters themselves.
> > >Is this sort of thing prevalent with bikes that have been sitting more
> > >than running?
>
> > >Bit of history about this bike. I'm the second owner and have been
> > >able to chat extensively with the previous owner. With only 15k miles
> > >he obviously didn't ride it much and when he did was only around the
> > >block. Most of the miles were put on in the first few years of
> > >ownership. The previous owner also delivered with the bike old service
> > >records. A couple of those records indicated the original owner
> > >complained about a tapping noise 20 yrs ago. At that time the Honda
> > >service response was to rev it to 3,000 rpm 'till it goes away. Ok,
> > >that works kinda but I'm not satisfied.
>
> > >I'm more than willing to take a methodical approach to really fixing
> > >this thing. I plan to put a lot more miles on this bike than the
> > >previous owner did in 25 yrs and want to make sure I've done my best
> > >to help the bike deliver.
>
> > >So, I can verify the oil filter (Fram) is currently installed
> > >correctly, i.e. the spring and seat are present and on the "cover end"
> > >of the oil filter. The oil is fresh 5W-40 Shell Rotella-T and at the
> > >proper level. What next? Is it possible to remove each adjuster, clean
> > >and reinstall? I know you can't disassemble them but in your
> > >experience will flushing them with kerosene or some other solvent
> > >work?
>
> > >By the way, I purchased some used hydraulic adjusters from eBay in
> > >anticipation of swapping parts for test purposes. In my makeshift
> > >testing of the eBay adjusters they seemed to be fine. (I could not
> > >collapse them without unseating the check ball. Although, I know it's
> > >unlikely that I could physically exert as much pressure on them by
> > >hand as they'd see in an engine.)
>
> > >Much thanks for your help.
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