Hi Snookfever, That sounds like a lot more than what i want to do with the carbs on my bike,however i do need to set my carbs so that the bike will idle without cutting out on me. At first it was idling way too high 2500 - 3000 rpm,i found that the choke was sticking so i got the cable freed up.Also for some reason the carb bowls were filling up (flooding ) when i went to start it,i would have to open the drains ,drain the fuel ,close them and try starting it again and it would start then. My friend (who i "assumed" knew what he was doing) tightened down all the way the 3 screws on top of the rail that goes across the carbs then turned them each 4 turns loose.Since he did that the bike will not start at all, i am guessing that he messed up the settings on them and i have no idea on how to set the idle for a carb correctly.I have a new(used but better condition) choke cable to install but i want to make sure the idle,air fuel mixture and whatever else is that needs to be set is set where they should be first. If anyone has any suggestions or tips feel free to tell me, i am open to all and any tips and or suggestions.Carburetors and electrical systems are the two areas i do not enjoy working on but i am going to have to if i want to get this bike up and running Thanks ~ J. Scott Have a great day ~ J. Scott
________________________________ From: Snookfever <[email protected]> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2009 9:57:35 PM Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Carburetor time If you can operate hand tools and read you can do it yourself. I have the same bike in red. I could not find someone local that would work on it. So I bought a shop manual on line and did mine myself. I think you can get a shop manual on CD for as little as $15. I bought a hard copy for $50. The first trick is to move the air box back to remove the carbs. That requires removing items that are bolted to the air box. After that it is simply disassemble clean and reassemble. The next trick is removing the air screws and replacing them correctly if you take it that far. Dont lose the o rings on the air screws. You should also know if you separate the carbs there are o rings in the connecting fuel tubes thay may need to be replaced if you take it that far. You may want to buy new slow jets. They are only $5/each. What I learned from Dennis on this group is that the slow jet must be cleaned with a wire .0011 inch diameter. Not easy to find a wire exacty .0011 inch unless you are a fisherman and use wire leaders and own a micrometer. I had both so no problem for me. Might be easier just to replace them. After cleaning my bike hesitated at take off, but ran good otherwise. Once I cleaned the slow jets with a wire (thanks Dennis) it ran like new. While I had mine apart I painted the domes to match the bike and replaced the screws with SS allen screws. You might also want to add an in line fuel filter after you see all the rust particles in the bottom of the carbs. Good luck...you can do it! On Mar 31, 10:34 am, Mike Prince <[email protected]> wrote: > I think it is time to have my carburetors rebuilt on my 84 700s. After > sitting most of the winter, the bike runs poorly. It runs great after it > gets going, but take off is bad, bad weak. What advice can you folks give > me? How much can I expect to pay? Should I try to do it myself? Can most > Honda dealers do this successfully? This community of nighthawk lovers has > been a true blessing to me and my old bike! Thank you all! > Mike Prince > Judsonia, Arkansas > > IMG_1917.JPG > 1632KViewDownload --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
